Here is the photos of me re-powing my C&C30MK1. Some advise spread the load
on the boom. Set a pallet in the cockpit. You will need to re-position the
Engine on the boom before you head into the cabin. or to the dock if coming
out. Get 2 short 4X6's for use in the cabin floor and set them on plywood
or short 1/2X6 to help spread the weight. You will need to re-position the
engine from that spot in the cabin floor just before the engine compartment
for the set. Do not wast time trying to force it into the hole. The engine
will go right in if you take off the starter and alternator along with the
exhaust mixer in the back. The last thing is to get the engine hanging in
some what the same angle as the engine stringers. It was a bitch trying to
sit it level. I resetthe angle and it went right in. Here is the link to
the setting photos of my engine. Thanks and good luck.


http://s148.photobucket.com/user/LTGoshen/library/Engine%20photos?sort=3&page=1


On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> To add on to Dennis's comment about exploring the overheating while
> keeping the engine onboard.  I had a mechinist who was very familiar with
> Yanmar tell me that there was very little reason to ever pull a Yanmar.
> According to him the bearings are significantly over built.  So, assuming
> you keep up with the oil level and changes, a bottom job is probably not
> ever going to be needed.
>
> Barring a cracked block or blown piston the only other thing that you
> might need to pull the engine for is stuck rings.  I've had good luck
> getting rings unstuck twice now without having to disassemble the engine.
> So have a blast working the top end as much as tou like.
>
> You'll probably also find that there are a bunch of interferences that
> would have made getting the engine out a very big job.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 22, 2014 9:53 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Welcome, Dan
>>
>> First, the leaks on the toe rails.  They should currently be sealed with
>> butyl rubber.  You can tighten the fasteners a bit.  Have someone hold from
>> above and tighten from below.  Do NOT overtighten or you'll squeeze the
>> butyl out.
>>
>> I don't worry too much about toe rail leaks but if the above procedure
>> doesn't completely stop leakage, try multiple applications of Captain
>> Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure.  Just run beads down the inboard edge of the
>> toe rail/deck joint.  Eventually it will seal most leakage.
>>
>> As for the engine removal, you can use the boom but not for lifting.  Use
>> your main halyard if it's in good condition to support the weight.  Rig a
>> purchase from the boom end to the halyard to haul in/out along the boom.
>> Tie the halyard to the boom loosely with a loop, unfasten the engine mounts
>> from the support rail, lift engine slightly, slide it out of the
>> compartment then lift clear and swing to pier using purchase to move it
>> outboard.
>>
>> Having said that, I'd thoroughly explore the overheating issue before
>> pulling the engine.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> On Nov 22, 2014 6:48 AM, "Dan via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>  I'm relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school
>>> using 14' Holders, then 21' day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+
>>> years of hang gliding.  I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23' Ericson and
>>> a 1977 26' C&C (my favorite).  I've owned the Ericson about a year and the
>>> C&C 4 months.  The C&C is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more
>>> sails than I know what to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this
>>> winter (working on how to remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating
>>> when I bought the vessel, got a very good deal on the boat.  I toyed with
>>> the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on the stern but would rather not drill
>>> holes in her plus I have all the maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I'm
>>> a mechanic. Sorry babbling.
>>>
>>> Sailing the C&C @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast,
>>> she sails easily and I can't wait to get her out this coming spring.  I'll
>>> sail the Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on
>>> the Yanmar.
>>>
>>> I do have a couple questions if I may:
>>>
>>>
>>>    - I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft
>>>    are of the cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length of 
>>> the
>>>    boat - I know there is a name for them but it escapes me.  I'm wondering 
>>> if
>>>    I can just re-seal the length of the rails until spring, removing them at
>>>    this point and replacing the seals isn't an option at this point.  What
>>>    sealant would work best?
>>>    - Can I use the boom (protected of course) to winch the engine -
>>>    weight under 200 lbs during the removal?  I can't imagine trying to lift 
>>> it
>>>    out using just manpower - is there a "standard" for removing engines?  My
>>>    idea is to use the boom protected of course and maybe set it up so the 
>>> load
>>>    is distributed over a wide area and a winch.  I don't want to damage the
>>>    boom but don't know any other way of getting the engine out.
>>>
>>> Thanks for reading my dribble.. looking forward to learning all about
>>> sailing the C&C and eventually moving up to a 30+ foot boat, buy that is
>>> way down the road.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>>
>>> Dan
>>> Brownsville Marina, Bremerton, WA
>>>
>>>
>>>
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> _______________________________________________
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-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain

*cpt.b...@gmail.com <bobhick...@rogers.com>*


*~~~~ __/) ~~~~*

.
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