BTW - MaineSail's site was posted with his discussion on battery monitoring from 2011
his newer article (which is linked in that original one) suggests that a Balmar Smart Gauge us a better option.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/smart_gauge

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-02-02 2:57 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:
Josh,
Thanks for the info on using voltage to gauge battery level.
With my tiny bank and very limited loads it does not make sense to be wiring in a monitor or Balmar Smart Gauge (to the tune of $360 cdn).  But I was thinking about adding a voltmeter so I could maintain some track on drain.
Say something like
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltmeter-3-50-30-0V-Anti-reverse-Protection/dp/B00DUTJXWO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1422902563&sr=1-8&keywords=voltage+meter&pebp=1422902722997&peasin=B00DUTJXWO

I have to hook up and figure out how to mount my solar panel this spring, and I will re-wire my 1-2-off switch as per MaineSail's instructions.  Rather than going to a "starting bank" and a "house bank" - I'll likely stick with A bank and B bank - use them interchangeably for starting and house.

Mark

 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2015-02-02 1:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

What you are looking for is an amp-hour meter.  Discharging a flooded deep cycle battery rated at 100 Ahrs below 50% should be avoided.  This roughly equates to 50 Ahrs of use.  5amp for 10hours or 50 amps for 1 hour....you get the jist.  Discharging a flooded deep cycle below 50% will decrease its effective useful service life.  Many batteries publish a the number of cycles and depth of discharge.  One loose rating convention is that a deep cycle will survive 200 charge/discharge cycles of 50%.  The cycle number increases when the depth of discharge is reduced.

When using a voltage meter, it is important to take a "no load" voltage after the battery has had time to "recover".  The easy way to remember a capacity to voltage conversion is 0.1v per 10%.  A fully charged battery will read 12.7v and a fully discharged one will read ~11.7v.  By this convention one should avoid voltage readings below 12.2v.  I have a total of 500Ahrs between 2 banks so when one gets to a "loaded" voltage of 12.2v I start considering a switch to the other battery.  I can go about 2 days in the middle of summer with no charging source before I start to worry.  The engine charges at 100amps so motoring on and of the hook keeps me pretty well topped up.

I put one of these in my first sailboat.  It is similar to the Link 2000 that Edd suggested.  I have a Link 2000 installed on my current boat but it has never worked right.  I believe the current shunt is bad or somehow bypassed on the charge or discharge circuit.....I'll get to it...

http://www.altestore.com/store/Meters-Communications-Site-Analysis/Meters-Battery-Monitors/Ammeters-Voltmeters-Battery-Monitors/Bogart-Engineering-TM-2025-A-F-TriMetric-Meter-Includes-fuse-and-fuse-holder/p10112/

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons,  MD

On Feb 2, 2015 8:27 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

          wrote:
Looking at the wiring diagrams reminded me of a question I am sure this list can answer.  I have not done much cruising yet, but plan to do more in the future.  One of the things I am unsure of is how people monitor the state of their batteries when you know shore power is not going to be available.  I have a digital voltmeter on the panel that I can check the batteries and a chart that translates voltage into percent charge and I have used that as a rough guide, but that seems crude for such an important function.  My understanding is that you have let the batteries sit for a while if they have been charging to get an accurate reading.  I am not sure if current draws also have to be off.   For instance, how would I know if it is safe to run the refrigeration while sailing to the next destination?  Can you get a meter that gives you “hours of battery life remaining”?  What strategies to listers use to solve this problem?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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