Barbara, To get a good match on your hull gelcoat, rent the Instatint gelcoat color book from FibreGlast.com. Pick the best match, order a quart and have a gelcoat guy spray it on and finish it.
I do it often. Makes for very close color matching. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 27, 2015, at 6:56 AM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Putting kiwigrip on my deck this spring is on my list. I've read and heard so > many good things, and the YouTube videos look like it's not a difficult boat > job to get a really nice finish with. Here's my question: > My hull has never been painted, she has the original "white" gelcoat and it > buffs up nicely and has a good shine when that happens. There are a few > dinks on the hull that keep her from looking pristine: 2 on the bow from dock > landings, a couple on the sides when practicing backing in a current, blah > blah. I'd prefer to pay someone to get these places back to looking original > than learning gelcoat repair myself and really screw it up. Would a good > boat yard that paints boats be able to spray gelcoat and match it? I've read > the matching is the hard part? Would said yard have to spray the entire > hull or just the few dinks? If they have to spray the entire hull for it to > look good, would it be better to just have the hull painted? Why do boats > get painted rather than leave them original gelcoat since gelcoat can be > colored when the boat is manufactured? > Thanks for your input. > > Barbara H. Fellers > > >> On Feb 27, 2015, at 6:45 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: >> >> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> >> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to >> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com >> >> You can reach the person managing the list at >> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com >> >> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." >> >> >> Today's Topics: >> >> 1. Non-Slip (Paul Hood) >> 2. Re: cockpit drains freezing (robert) >> 3. Re: cockpit drains freezing (John Pennie) >> 4. Re: Starting Battery (Rick Brass) >> 5. Re: cockpit drains freezing (Rick Brass) >> 6. Re: Non-Slip (Jim Watts) >> 7. Re: Non-Slip (Russ & Melody) >> 8. Re: Non-Slip (Chuck S) >> 9. Re: Need Recommendation for Tool to remove balsa core from >> drilled hole (Chuck S) >> 10. Re: Non-Slip (Danny Haughey) >> >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> Message: 1 >> Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 20:48:58 -0500 >> From: "Paul Hood" <paul.h...@rogers.com> >> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Subject: Stus-List Non-Slip >> Message-ID: <008901d0522f$8df6b2c0$a9e41840$@rogers.com> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >> >> I was wondering if anyone has ever ventured to do the following project that >> I'm working through. I bought my boat from the original owner 2 years ago >> and am in the middle of redoing my non-slip. >> >> >> >> I have removed all deck hardware with the exception of the toe rail, sanded >> down the existing non-slip so that all is smooth and am preparing to spray >> gelcoat over the entire deck. Once sprayed smooth, I will tape off areas >> for pattern and spread a layer of gelcoat followed immediately by the >> pressing of the Gibco flex mould to create the non-slip. >> >> >> >> www.gibcoflexmold.com <http://www.gibcoflexmold.com> >> >> >> >> I know this is different than the original roll-on finish, but I think the >> Gibco wears better, is easier to clean, is easier on bear skin, and looks >> much better to boot. My hope is that the grip is better than rolled as it >> is more consistent throughout. There are dozens of patterns and since I'm >> not matching, I'm getting the one claiming to have the best grip. It will >> be definitely better than current as the surface is chalked throughout and >> worn in many areas. In addition, there was a deck repair some years back >> and the color is visibly different and the surface below the non-slip repair >> is thin and almost see through. >> >> >> >> I'm waiting for this months -20c temperatures to move out before I start >> heating and spraying surface. Canadian winters.. >> >> >> >> Has anyone ever tackled such a project and if so, do you have any hints. >> I'm sure there are lots of opinions here and I know I'm about to open the >> can of worms on many levels but I'd like to hear what you think. >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Paul Hood >> >> 1982 C&C34 >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/1aaf139c/attachment-0001.html> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 2 >> Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 21:56:41 -0400 >> From: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing >> Message-ID: <54efced9.3060...@eastlink.ca> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed" >> >> Tom: >> >> You said it " So.. the crew did a lousy job with the shrinkwrap". >> >> Get an experienced/qualified tradesman. >> >> Rob Abbott >> AZURA >> C&C 32 - 84 >> Halifax, N.S. >> >>> On 2015-02-26 9:24 PM, Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List wrote: >>> Here's my sad story of a cockpit drain hose freezing 11 years ago, the >>> first winter in New England after I bought my Landfall 38. I had it >>> "professionally" shrinkwrapped and asked the wrappers not to go too >>> before below the toe rail because I'd heard the film could stick to >>> the Awlgrip hull paint. The day before they wrapped, I ran antifreeze >>> through all drains in case there were low spots. So.. the crew did a >>> lousy job with the shrinkwrap, the "hem" of which was too loose and >>> high and let snow and freezing rain blow into the cockpit all winter. >>> New to the boat, I didn't worry come spring, but after launching found >>> my bilge filling and the pump running. The water the shrinkwrappers >>> had let into the cockpit displaced my antifreeze in a low spot in the >>> hose, which froze and burst the hose (below the waterline) - I'm just >>> glad I discovered it on my mooring after launching and had a >>> functioning seacock, or I'd have wondered where the boat was when I >>> next time dinghied out to the mooring. (Worst part was it was really >>> hard to run that thick, inflexible replacement hose down beside the >>> engine.) The next year, I got together with some other guys, bought a >>> heat gun, and we've shrinkwrapped our own boats every year since at a >>> small fraction of the cost - and I've never had water ingress again. >>> Lesson learned. >>> >>> Tom Lochhaas >>> C&C Landfall 38 >>> Newburyport, MA 01950 >>> >>> >>>> *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On >>>> Behalf Of *mike amirault via CnC-List >>>> *Sent:* Monday, February 23, 2015 7:09 PM >>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >>>> *Subject:* Stus-List cockpit drains freezing >>>> >>>> NS has seen many freeze thaw cycles this winter. After a >>>> fairly substantial rainfall this weekend, I found the bilge >>>> on my C&C 33mkii was full to the top. This seemed like too >>>> much water to have run down the mast so I investigated and >>>> found that one of the hoses on my cockpit drains was frozen >>>> solid and popped the hose off the barbs of the drain. My boat >>>> is not covered at this time(tarp was sagging too much) so >>>> there is a lot of water in the cockpit. I'm thinking there >>>> may be a low spot in the hose causing water to freeze there >>>> rather than draining. The drains on my C&C are criss-crossed, >>>> i.e., port drainst to stbd, &stbd to port. Just wondering how >>>> other owners in a freezing climate deal with this issue? >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >>> bottom of page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/b61b6b29/attachment-0001.html> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 3 >> Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 21:10:33 -0500 >> From: John Pennie <j...@svpaws.net> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing >> Message-ID: <1754a927-4969-4f8b-aab0-897d9713b...@svpaws.net> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >> >> That used to be one of the best party weekends when we lived aboard. We >> usually had 4-5 boats wrapping at the same time. One boat owned the >> gun/torch/flame thrower and the rest would provide the propane and >> refreshments. We usually did a group order for the wrap to lower the price >> somewhat. Amazing how creative folks would get on doors. Good times. >> >> John >> >> >> >>> On Feb 26, 2015, at 8:24 PM, Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List >>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> >>> Here's my sad story of a cockpit drain hose freezing 11 years ago, the >>> first winter in New England after I bought my Landfall 38. I had it >>> "professionally" shrinkwrapped and asked the wrappers not to go too before >>> below the toe rail because I'd heard the film could stick to the Awlgrip >>> hull paint. The day before they wrapped, I ran antifreeze through all >>> drains in case there were low spots. So.. the crew did a lousy job with the >>> shrinkwrap, the "hem" of which was too loose and high and let snow and >>> freezing rain blow into the cockpit all winter. New to the boat, I didn't >>> worry come spring, but after launching found my bilge filling and the pump >>> running. The water the shrinkwrappers had let into the cockpit displaced my >>> antifreeze in a low spot in the hose, which froze and burst the hose (below >>> the waterline) - I'm just glad I discovered it on my mooring after >>> launching and had a functioning seacock, or I'd have wondered where the >>> boat was when I next time dinghied out to the moo ring. (Worst part was it was really hard to run that thick, inflexible replacement hose down beside the engine.) The next year, I got together with some other guys, bought a heat gun, and we've shrinkwrapped our own boats every year since at a small fraction of the cost - and I've never had water ingress again. Lesson learned. >>> >>> Tom Lochhaas >>> C&C Landfall 38 >>> Newburyport, MA 01950 >>> >>> >>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of mike >>>> amirault via CnC-List >>>> Sent: Monday, February 23, 2015 7:09 PM >>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>>> Subject: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing >>>> >>>> >>>> NS has seen many freeze thaw cycles this winter. After a fairly >>>> substantial rainfall this weekend, I found the bilge on my C&C 33mkii was >>>> full to the top. This seemed like too much water to have run down the mast >>>> so I investigated and found that one of the hoses on my cockpit drains was >>>> frozen solid and popped the hose off the barbs of the drain. My boat is >>>> not covered at this time(tarp was sagging too much) so there is a lot of >>>> water in the cockpit. I'm thinking there may be a low spot in the hose >>>> causing water to freeze there rather than draining. The drains on my C&C >>>> are criss-crossed, i.e., port drainst to stbd, &stbd to port. Just >>>> wondering how other owners in a freezing climate deal with this issue? >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >>> bottom of page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/323c9489/attachment-0001.html> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 4 >> Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 21:28:16 -0500 >> From: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net> >> To: "'Josh Muckley'" <muckl...@gmail.com>, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Battery >> Message-ID: <006b01d05235$0b8d5360$22a7fa20$@earthlink.net> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >> >> Josh; >> >> >> >> What you say is correct. Here is some amplification: >> >> >> >> For a given battery chemistry, the capacity of the battery is proportional >> to the weight of material in it. For a lead-acid battery that means more >> lead, more capacity. >> >> >> >> Basic Amp Hour ratings for deep cycle and marine batteries are published >> using a 20 amp discharge rate because that is an industry standard. >> Similarly Reserve Capacity ratings for automotive batteries are always for >> 25 amp currents. Some manufacturers publish capacity number in addition to >> the standard 20 amp rate. >> >> >> >> As far as Amp Hour capacity goes, the lower the current draw, the longer the >> battery will deliver that current. But it would not be a straight line on a >> graph of current vs. time. So a battery delivering 5 amps (typical for one >> of our boats) may well deliver 5 amps for significantly longer than the >> published AH rating divided by 5. >> >> >> >> There really is no relationship between Amp Hour capacity and cranking amps. >> For a given weight of lead, the more surface area in the plates (more and >> thinner, plus some refinements for conductor length and shape) the higher >> the cranking amps. The thicker and fewer the plate, the lower the cranking >> amps and the longer the battery will deliver lower current flow (Reserve >> Capacity). But a given weight of lead can only produce a given amount of >> free electrons, so the tradeoff is between cranking amps and reserve, not >> Amp Hour, capacity. >> >> >> >> An automotive starting battery has more thin plates, and is less suitable >> for the environment of a boat with vibration and deeper discharge cycles. >> Conversely, a deep cycle battery has fewer thick plate to deliver lower >> current for a long time. >> >> >> >> A marine start battery is sort of a compromise between the two, in an >> attempt to provide a happy medium between the two, and really is most >> desirable for inboard V8 applications in smaller powerboats. Remember that >> we don't usually try to start our boats at below freezing temperatures, so >> high CCA isn't generally needed. For that reason, the standard for marine >> cranking amps is determined at a higher temperature than CCA and the two >> ratings are not comparable. >> >> >> >> For the engines in our boats, delivering 200 amps or so to the starter is >> well within the capability of just about any deep cycle or marine starting >> battery, and will result in more durability and battery life and in longer >> hours on the hook between engine use. If your need lighter weight or smaller >> batteries for racing or day sailing, go with a smaller marine start battery >> like a group 24. >> >> >> >> Rick Brass >> >> >> >> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh >> Muckley via CnC-List >> Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2015 9:49 PM >> To: C&C List; Edd Schillay >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Battery >> >> >> >> I checked my Yanmar manual and it looks like it calls for a 100 Ahr battery >> for my 3 cyl 35hp diesel. >> >> So now you ask yourself, how do I compare CCA to Ahrs. The short answer is, >> you don't. >> >> CCA is a bit arbitrary but to achieve higher CCA in the same size you have >> to have more and thinner plates. This makes them more fragile and decreases >> their ability to be deaply discharged as well as survive vibration and >> uncovering. If you seek higher CCA exclusively then you will find a battery >> which is less suited for a marine environment. >> >> AHrs is a less arbitrary spec but still a small bit of fuzzy math since C/20 >> = 100 and C/10 = 80 and C/1 = 60 could all be Ahr ratings for the same >> battery. Most manufacturers provide their rating based on C/20. >> Ultimately, the best batteries (regarless of all other ratings) are the ones >> which are heaviest. These will have the most lead and subsequently the >> strongest plates. They will usually also be at the top end of the Ahr >> ratings but not the highest CCA (if those ratings are even mutually >> present). >> >> Disregard CA and RC ratings. >> >> A sufficiently large deep cycle battery is better than a smaller, lighter, >> starting battery. >> >> The weight is only an accurate comparison if the chemistry is the same. >> >> Josh >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/fabde7e7/attachment-0001.html> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 5 >> Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 21:40:57 -0500 >> From: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net> >> To: "'Tom Lochhaas'" <toml...@gmail.com>, <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing >> Message-ID: <007001d05236$d0eeb1c0$72cc1540$@earthlink.net> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" >> >> Another thing you should change is your yard, if you use the same yard for >> winter storage. Part of the process for launching, before the Travel Lift >> straps are removed from under the boat, should be to go below to check for >> leaks and to ?burp? the shaft seal if that is needed. >> >> >> >> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom >> Lochhaas via CnC-List >> Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 8:25 PM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing >> >> >> >> Here's my sad story of a cockpit drain hose freezing 11 years ago, the first >> winter in New England after I bought my Landfall 38. I had it >> "professionally" shrinkwrapped and asked the wrappers not to go too before >> below the toe rail because I'd heard the film could stick to the Awlgrip >> hull paint. The day before they wrapped, I ran antifreeze through all drains >> in case there were low spots. So.. the crew did a lousy job with the >> shrinkwrap, the "hem" of which was too loose and high and let snow and >> freezing rain blow into the cockpit all winter. New to the boat, I didn't >> worry come spring, but after launching found my bilge filling and the pump >> running. The water the shrinkwrappers had let into the cockpit displaced my >> antifreeze in a low spot in the hose, which froze and burst the hose (below >> the waterline) - I'm just glad I discovered it on my mooring after launching >> and had a functioning seacock, or I'd have wondered where the boat was when >> I next time dinghied out to the moor ing. (Worst part was it was really hard to run that thick, inflexible replacement hose down beside the engine.) The next year, I got together with some other guys, bought a heat gun, and we've shrinkwrapped our own boats every year since at a small fraction of the cost - and I've never had water ingress again. Lesson learned. >> >> >> >> >> Tom Lochhaas >> >> C&C Landfall 38 >> >> Newburyport, MA 01950 >> >> >> >> >> >> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of mike >> amirault via CnC-List >> Sent: Monday, February 23, 2015 7:09 PM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Subject: Stus-List cockpit drains freezing >> >> >> >> NS has seen many freeze thaw cycles this winter. After a fairly substantial >> rainfall this weekend, I found the bilge on my C&C 33mkii was full to the >> top. This seemed like too much water to have run down the mast so I >> investigated and found that one of the hoses on my cockpit drains was frozen >> solid and popped the hose off the barbs of the drain. My boat is not covered >> at this time(tarp was sagging too much) so there is a lot of water in the >> cockpit. I'm thinking there may be a low spot in the hose causing water to >> freeze there rather than draining. The drains on my C&C are criss-crossed, >> i.e., port drainst to stbd, &stbd to port. Just wondering how other owners >> in a freezing climate deal with this issue? >> >> >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/88076659/attachment-0001.html> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 6 >> Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 21:31:40 -0800 >> From: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> >> To: Paul Hood <paul.h...@rogers.com>, 1 CnC List >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Non-Slip >> Message-ID: >> <ca+jz0ffy6laxzewgocbgwhucjokeh98ho0aizm3-oowliun...@mail.gmail.com> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" >> >> I have one word. Kiwi Grip. >> >> OK, it's two. Sue me. Pressing a mold into rapidly curing gelcoat sounds >> like an incredibly painful thing to do to yourself. >> >> Jim Watts >> Paradigm Shift >> C&C 35 Mk III >> Victoria, BC >> >> On 26 February 2015 at 17:48, Paul Hood via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> wrote: >> >>> I was wondering if anyone has ever ventured to do the following project >>> that I?m working through. I bought my boat from the original owner 2 years >>> ago and am in the middle of redoing my non-slip. >>> >>> >>> >>> I have removed all deck hardware with the exception of the toe rail, >>> sanded down the existing non-slip so that all is smooth and am preparing to >>> spray gelcoat over the entire deck. Once sprayed smooth, I will tape off >>> areas for pattern and spread a layer of gelcoat followed immediately by the >>> pressing of the Gibco flex mould to create the non-slip. >>> >>> >>> >>> www.gibcoflexmold.com >>> >>> >>> >>> I know this is different than the original roll-on finish, but I think the >>> Gibco wears better, is easier to clean, is easier on bear skin, and looks >>> much better to boot. My hope is that the grip is better than rolled as it >>> is more consistent throughout. There are dozens of patterns and since I?m >>> not matching, I?m getting the one claiming to have the best grip. It will >>> be definitely better than current as the surface is chalked throughout and >>> worn in many areas. In addition, there was a deck repair some years back >>> and the color is visibly different and the surface below the non-slip >>> repair is thin and almost see through. >>> >>> >>> >>> I?m waiting for this months -20c temperatures to move out before I start >>> heating and spraying surface. Canadian winters?. >>> >>> >>> >>> Has anyone ever tackled such a project and if so, do you have any hints. >>> I?m sure there are lots of opinions here and I know I?m about to open the >>> can of worms on many levels but I?d like to hear what you think. >>> >>> >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Paul Hood >>> >>> 1982 C&C34 >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >>> bottom of page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/72de529d/attachment-0001.html> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 7 >> Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2015 22:20:11 -0800 >> From: Russ & Melody <russ...@telus.net> >> To: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com>,cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Non-Slip >> Message-ID: >> <mailman.71.1425037543.30285.cnc-list_cnc-list....@cnc-list.com> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed" >> >> >> Damn. >> >> The plan did seem a bit risky but I was looking >> forward to hear how it turned out. >> >> Cheers, Russ >> Sweet 35 mk-1 >> >> At 09:31 PM 26/02/2015, you wrote: >>> I have one word. Kiwi Grip. >>> >>> OK, it's two. Sue me. Pressing a mold into >>> rapidly curing gelcoat sounds like an incredibly >>> painful thing to do to yourself. >>> >>> Jim Watts >>> Paradigm Shift >>> C&C 35 Mk III >>> Victoria, BC >>> >>> On 26 February 2015 at 17:48, Paul Hood via >>> CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> >>> I was wondering if anyone has ever ventured to >>> do the following project that I???m working >>> through. I bought my boat from the original >>> owner 2 years ago and am in the middle of redoing my non-slip. >>> >>> ? >>> >>> I have removed all deck hardware with the >>> exception of the toe rail, sanded down the >>> existing non-slip so that all is smooth and am >>> preparing to spray gelcoat over the entire >>> deck.? Once sprayed smooth, I will tape off >>> areas for pattern and spread a layer of gelcoat >>> followed immediately by the pressing of the >>> Gibco flex mould to create the non-slip. >>> >>> ? >>> >>> <http://www.gibcoflexmold.com>www.gibcoflexmold.com >>> >>> ? >>> >>> I know this is different than the original >>> roll-on finish, but I think the Gibco wears >>> better, is easier to clean, is easier on bear >>> skin, and looks much better to boot.? My hope >>> is that the grip is better than rolled as it is >>> more consistent throughout.? There are dozens >>> of patterns and since I???m not matching, I???m >>> getting the one claiming to have the best >>> grip.? It will be definitely better than >>> current as the surface is chalked throughout and >>> worn in many areas.? In addition, there was a >>> deck repair some years back and the color is >>> visibly different and the surface below the >>> non-slip repair is thin and almost see through.? >>> >>> ? >>> >>> I???m waiting for this months -20c temperatures >>> to move out before I start heating and spraying surface.? Canadian >>> winters?. >>> >>> ? >>> >>> Has anyone ever tackled such a project and if >>> so, do you have any hints.? I???m sure there >>> are lots of opinions here and I know I???m about >>> to open the can of worms on many levels but I???d like to hear what you >>> think. >>> >>> ? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Paul Hood >>> >>> 1982 C&C34 >>> >>> ? >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Email address: >>> <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including >>> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: >>> <http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including >>> unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150226/dc2f0b86/attachment.html> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 8 >> Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2015 09:29:01 +0000 (UTC) >> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> >> To: Paul Hood <paul.h...@rogers.com>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Non-Slip >> Message-ID: >> <813096364.20611.1425029341795.javamail.zim...@comcast.net> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" >> >> I like the Kiwi Grip method. Plan to do mine this year or next. >> >> >> Chuck >> Resolute >> 1990 C&C 34R >> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> >> From: "Paul Hood via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 8:48:58 PM >> Subject: Stus-List Non-Slip >> >> >> >> I was wondering if anyone has ever ventured to do the following project that >> I?m working through. I bought my boat from the original owner 2 years ago >> and am in the middle of redoing my non-slip. >> >> >> >> I have removed all deck hardware with the exception of the toe rail, sanded >> down the existing non-slip so that all is smooth and am preparing to spray >> gelcoat over the entire deck. Once sprayed smooth, I will tape off areas for >> pattern and spread a layer of gelcoat followed immediately by the pressing >> of the Gibco flex mould to create the non-slip. >> >> >> >> www.gibcoflexmold.com >> >> >> >> I know this is different than the original roll-on finish, but I think the >> Gibco wears better, is easier to clean, is easier on bear skin, and looks >> much better to boot. My hope is that the grip is better than rolled as it is >> more consistent throughout. There are dozens of patterns and since I?m not >> matching, I?m getting the one claiming to have the best grip. It will be >> definitely better than current as the surface is chalked throughout and worn >> in many areas. In addition, there was a deck repair some years back and the >> color is visibly different and the surface below the non-slip repair is thin >> and almost see through. >> >> >> >> I?m waiting for this months -20c temperatures to move out before I start >> heating and spraying surface. Canadian winters?. >> >> >> >> Has anyone ever tackled such a project and if so, do you have any hints. I?m >> sure there are lots of opinions here and I know I?m about to open the can of >> worms on many levels but I?d like to hear what you think. >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Paul Hood >> >> 1982 C&C34 >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150227/59c64313/attachment-0001.html> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 9 >> Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2015 10:18:09 +0000 (UTC) >> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> >> To: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>, "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Need Recommendation for Tool to remove balsa >> core from drilled hole >> Message-ID: >> <378135771.29696.1425032289976.javamail.zim...@comcast.net> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" >> >> I found that clear mailing tape works well to cover the bottom of the hole. >> Bend the end over to help removal later. >> A shop vac for removing the core is essential. >> West Systems has a nice booklet and videos that explain proper technigues. >> >> West suggests wetting the inside of any hole; core and skins with >> unthickened epoxy first. >> I start with about 3 or 4 pumps of resin and hardener in a plastic cup >> (Dollar Store throw aways). I mix thoroughly with an acid brush, for well >> over 1 minute, wet out the holes, then I add 404 High Density filler to the >> cup mixing until it is like mayonaise or peanut butter, and fill the holes >> using the brush to push it into any voids in the core. One problem with West >> is the amine blush that forms when it cures, and requires grinding before >> adding another layer. Scrubbing with a good 3M pad removes it easiest if the >> surface isn't too rough. Don't wet out more holes than you have prepaired >> filler. You can keep adding more epoxy/filler as long as the first is still >> reacting, is in gel form and hasn't cured hard. Once it is hard, you need to >> grind off the amine blush to get a good bond. >> >> Also, in warmer weather, if your cup of epoxy starts to overheat, you can >> set it in a shallow pan of water to slow down the reaction, and prevent a >> fire. >> In colder weather, I like to have a heat gun handy to warm the surface >> before applying and to warm the epoxy to get it to kick. I also use a heat >> lamp to keep heat on an area to be sure it will cure thoroughly. I don't >> like to epoxy anything if the temp of the substrate is below 40 or above 80. >> >> >> Chuck >> Resolute >> 1990 C&C 34R >> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> >> From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>. >> To: "kelly petew" <kellype...@msn.com>, "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 12:11:14 PM >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Need Recommendation for Tool to remove balsa core >> from drilled hole >> >> >> >> I just did this for my new stainless steel handrails. I didn't have real >> good luck with a bent nail so I tried various sizes of allen wrench. I found >> that a 3/16th or 1/8th inch drill bit through 3/8th holes at various angles >> worked best. I shop-vaced the chips out. After that you'll have better luck >> finishing up the hole with anballen wrench. >> >> If these are new holes, you might try to avoid drilling through the bottom >> skin. Otherwise you'll have to tape or plug the bottom hole when you go to >> fill with epoxy. I wet out the hole with clear penitrating epoxy and then >> fill in stages with thickend epoxy. If you drill through the bottom layer >> you can use masking tape to plug it, then a drop or two of 10 minute epoxy >> in the void to seal it. That way none of the CPE or thickened epoxy leaks >> out. >> >> I was filling the holes in 40-50?F weather so I used the fast hardening >> agent. In a large flat area this would have been fine but since some of my >> voids were close to 3 or 4 Tbsp (or 45-60ml) this caused a thermal run away >> in some of the holes. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> On Feb 26, 2015 11:44 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> > wrote: >> >> >> >> I want to remove balsa core from some drilled holes and replace it with >> epoxy. I've heard that a bent nail inserted into an electric drill works. >> But I wonder if there is a tool designed specifically to do this job. >> >> Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. >> >> Pete W. >> >> Siren Song >> C&C 30-2 >> Deltaville, VA >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150227/9a55c7c1/attachment-0001.html> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 10 >> Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2015 06:45:03 -0500 >> From: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com> >> To: cscheaf...@comcast.net, cnc-list@cnc-list.com, >> paul.h...@rogers.com >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Non-Slip >> Message-ID: <habcqkmph3pdil67sefofvwc.1425037503...@email.android.com> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" >> >> I sprayed gel coat on my o'day 22 after a repair along the toe rail. ?Of >> course the toe rail was just short pieces of teak and rub rail was the >> flexible 2 piece black and white stuff. >> >> Anyway I removed all the hardware filled cracks, repaired some fiberglass, >> prepped and sprayed just up to the non skid. So, I have no insights there. >> ?However, if you're going to spray gel coat, practice practice practice is >> very different than paint. ?Mine looked okay but, let's just say, it was a >> very textured finish and I'm not sure I would try and tackle it again. ?The >> repairs and the prep, yes, spreading I would leave to a pro. ?I saw what a >> pro could do on another guys cat boat and man did that ever look great! >> >> Danny >> >> >> From my Android phone >> >> -------- Original message -------- >> From: Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Date: 02/27/2015 4:29 AM (GMT-05:00) >> To: Paul Hood <paul.h...@rogers.com>,"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Non-Slip >> >> I like the Kiwi Grip method.? Plan to do mine this year or next. >> >> >> Chuck >> Resolute >> 1990 C&C 34R >> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md >> >> From: "Paul Hood via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 8:48:58 PM >> Subject: Stus-List Non-Slip >> >> I was wondering if anyone has ever ventured to do the following project that >> I?m working through. I bought my boat from the original owner 2 years ago >> and am in the middle of redoing my non-slip. >> ? >> I have removed all deck hardware with the exception of the toe rail, sanded >> down the existing non-slip so that all is smooth and am preparing to spray >> gelcoat over the entire deck.? Once sprayed smooth, I will tape off areas >> for pattern and spread a layer of gelcoat followed immediately by the >> pressing of the Gibco flex mould to create the non-slip. >> ? >> www.gibcoflexmold.com >> ? >> I know this is different than the original roll-on finish, but I think the >> Gibco wears better, is easier to clean, is easier on bear skin, and looks >> much better to boot.? My hope is that the grip is better than rolled as it >> is more consistent throughout.? There are dozens of patterns and since I?m >> not matching, I?m getting the one claiming to have the best grip.? It will >> be definitely better than current as the surface is chalked throughout and >> worn in many areas.? In addition, there was a deck repair some years back >> and the color is visibly different and the surface below the non-slip repair >> is thin and almost see through.? >> ? >> I?m waiting for this months -20c temperatures to move out before I start >> heating and spraying surface.? Canadian winters?. >> ? >> Has anyone ever tackled such a project and if so, do you have any hints.? >> I?m sure there are lots of opinions here and I know I?m about to open the >> can of worms on many levels but I?d like to hear what you think. >> ? >> Thanks, >> Paul Hood >> 1982 C&C34 >> ? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20150227/37a4bad1/attachment.html> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Subject: Digest Footer >> >> _______________________________________________ >> CnC-List mailing list >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 109, Issue 74 >> ***************************************** > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
