Hi Joe, Not sure what compressor you’re using, but for me Danfoss BD50 control module was cutting out due to significant voltage drop at the compressor. Make sure your fridge wires are good gauge. I ended up running 2x10AWG. Two 10AWG for positive and two for return. Any by return I mean not just to a nearest ground. Back to the battery or negative high power bus bar. My main culprit for voltage drop was the main panel switch I used to turn the fridge on/off. After few months of headaches and troubleshooting, I ended up re-purposing the switch. Instead of a panel switch, I just have AGC fuse which I install in the spring and take out in the fall. For me, there is no other way to shut off the fridge. The double 10AWG was added prior to finding that switch was the main culprit. I left it as it could only help.
Also, bus bars Dennis mentioned would help with voltage drops for all your loads. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 C&C 38MkII Newport, RI From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 11:07 PM To: Joseph Scott; CnClist Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel This would be a good time to install a ground bus bar or a Blue Sea PowerPost Plus. https://www.bluesea.com/products/2300/Common_150A_BusBar_-_10_Gang_with_Cover https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/PowerPost_Connectors/PowerPost_Plus Dennis C. On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 9:19 PM, Joseph Scott via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Yep, that's exactly how my panel is and I did see those bolts. I guess I was expecting a bar or something. Thanks a lot. This is my first electrical project. Sent from my iPad > On Mar 11, 2015, at 10:13 PM, Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> wrote: > > Remove the panel from its mounting slots (lift up, pull the bottom forward, > and then lower out of the top slot. That's the way mine is rigged. If > different from yours, just ignore this email.) > > On the starboard side of the wiring compartment about 4 or 5 inches from the > top you should see two "bolts" sticking out about an inch or two. One of > these is the ground and will have a bunch of black wires affixed to it. One > of the fatter black wires in the common ground for all the panel wiring down > to the battery wire connection on the engine block. > > The other "bolt" on my boat is the common positive from the battery 1-2-all > switch to the panel, and most of the fuses get power from this point. > > > Rick Brass > Imzadi 1976 C&C 38 mk 2 > Hull # 049 > Washington, NC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph > Scott via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 9:47 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List 1976 C&C 38 Electrical Panel > > Hey All > > I am looking at installing a DC refrig system. The old one I pulled out was > AC so I need to run new wiring. When I look at the fuse panel all I see it > a place for the positive wire. I don't see anywhere to attach the negative > or anywhere that the negative comes into the panel. Shouldn't it be there > somewhere? > > Thanks > > Joe > > Sent from my > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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