Edd;

 

If it was salt water in the engine, you probably need to look hard at your
raw water and exhaust system. When my M35B froze up in 2009, that was the
source of my problem.

 

The PO had saved money be not putting an exhaust riser in back of the
exhaust manifold, and by not putting a vented loop in between the heat
exchanger and the exhaust elbow. He used only the exhaust elbow, and to run
the exhaust hose across the back of the engine at a slight downward angle to
a muffler only slightly below the exhaust elbow. Then there was no vertical
lift aft of the muffler (Universal calls for the exhaust to go at least 18”
above the waterline at some point between muffler and exhaust through hull).
End product was that water in the exhaust when the engine was shut off
drained back to fill the muffler and hose, and then got back into the
exhaust manifold when the boat heeled over while sailing.

 

That was OK as long as I ran the engine fairly frequently and blew the water
out of the manifold. But when I had the boat immobile for a couple of months
for some work (and I recall you just put considerable time into rewiring)
the water in the manifold leaked back through the exhaust valves into a
couple of cylinders and I ended up with a locked up engine with only a bit
over 600 hours on it.

 

$6-7000 is pretty consistent with what it would have cost me for a complete
rebuild on my M35B back in 2010 (which was between $5500 and 6K at that
time). But don’t be afraid of a rebuild. If it is done right, it is not
going to be a 25 year old engine when it is done. All the wear parts
(gaskets, seals, bearings, rings, etc) will be brand new. The head will be
machined and rebuilt to the spec of a new engine. And since you have a bent
rod, you will get a new set of rods and pistons. About the only “old” parts
will be the block, head, flywheel, and crankshaft. And as part of the
rebuild process everything gets restored to the manufacturers spec for a new
engine.

 

As I’ve said, opted for a bobtail engine at $6500, and reused my existing
transmission and engine control panel. Everything else was brand new,
including the motor mounts.

 

Has anyone suggested a Long Block to you? A long block is a new engine,
typically less the exhaust manifold,  starter, alternator, etc. Probably
need to get one from the Kubota engine dealer, and typically the long block
is higher material cost but less labor than a rebuild, and does not cost
much more in total. Might serve to allay your fears about a “25 year old”
engine.

 

Finally, I don’t know who told you it would take months to rebuild your
engine. Your local tractor, forklift, industrial equipment, equipment
rental, and truck dealers do it every day. In truth, I’ve never rebuilt a 4
cylinder Kubota. But I used to do a 6 cylinder Cummins about once a month
when teaching groups of 6-8 new mechanics how to do it. Even with needing to
teach how to look up specs and use special tools, a broken engine on a
pallet became a completely rebuilt, properly adjusted, and running engine
during a 4 ½ day class. And the 4 cylinder Yanmar engines used to take about
3 ½ days. Look in the yellow pages or online for someone who specializes in
Kubota tractors and industrial equipment instead of just looking at boat
yards.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2015 10:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Repower -- Ugh

 

Russ,

 

It was determined that it’s sea water in the engine, not antifreeze (raw
water pump was leaking and the antifreeze “tank” was full. Therefore, it
can’t be the head gasket as the culprit (I’m told the salt water system
never gets up that high — just the antifreeze). All of the injectors were
seized. They cleaned them out and put fresh fuel in there. Could not get the
engine to turn 100%, even by hand. 75% was it, then stop. 

 

So they think it’s a bent rod which means a rebuild. 

 

So now I’m asking myself — do I spend $6-7000 fixing up a 25 year-old engine
(and lose two months or more of my season) or do I spend $10,800 on a brand
new one? 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> 

 









               

 






 

On Jun 25, 2015, at 12:08 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 


Hi Edd,

Wasn't this a suspected head gasket leak a while ago? Then confirmed
suspicion finding discoloured oil (grey) and cranking with no firing?  So
now it's probably just hydraulic'ed and they want to remove the whole puppy!

Did anyone try barring it over with the injectors removed? 

Don't you have a competent mechanic nearby who can pop the head off in less
than a couple of hours and give you a good opinion?

        Might save the season and a few grand to boot, Russ



 

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