Hi David, Just noticed your note. When I re-stepped the mast this spring I read two different articles on tuning. The first recommended tuning without the mast blocks installed and I tried that but could never get the rake correct, so after reading Cutter's article, I loosened all the shrouds, and the backstay turnbuckles and put the blocks in, having to use a wedge to get the aft block in. I have a new headstay and furler so had to do some adjusting with the turnbuckle to get the right length and rake. I have the rake about right but don't have a precise measurement because the mainsail is still flaked on the boom, but it's a lot closer (less) than before. Then I tightened the backstay turnbuckles, with the adjuster off, and then re-adjusted the headstay and backstay turnbuckles alternately get the proper rake with what seems to be about the right headstay tension, according to Cutter's article. I still need to do more work on the shroud tension -- the mast head is centered via the uppers, and the sail track straight, but the last time I went sailing there seemed to be too much slack in the leeward shrouds in 12-14 kts. of breeze. I'll let you know how the rest of the tuning goes. Monty
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 12:38 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Monty- Thanks for pointing that out. I had read it a while ago, but > forgot about it. One thing I still find confusing is the backstay. With > the split wire backstay, no matter where you have the car, it is putting > tension on the mast. The amount of tension would depend on the tightness > of the turnbuckles in the back. So in what state do you measure the rake? > With the backstay removed or with the adjuster in its loosest position? > Once adjusted, how does one set those rear turnbuckles? Dave > > On Aug 2, 2015, at 9:44 AM, Monty Schumpert via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > David, > Check out the article "Rod Rigging -- Generic Tuning" by Greg Cutter in > the Do It Yourself section of the C&C Photo Album and Resource Center. I'm > going through the same process after re-stepping the mast on my 34+ this > spring. > > Monty > Scandia > 1991 C&C 34+ > Annapolis, MD > > On Fri, Jul 31, 2015 at 11:59 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I took a good look at my furler, mast, shrouds and stays yesterday >> preparatory to trying to do some mast tuning. I am unsure as to the best >> way of going about this process and could use some advice. >> I found that I was raked somewhere between 18 and 24 inches aft, which >> is much too far by all accounts, so I want to bring the mast back to 6-12 >> inches. I have read the guides, but it is the specifics of different >> mast/shroud/stay combinations is what I am unsure about. It was more >> straightforward on my previous 34. My mast has no adjustment possible at >> the base or through deck unlike my old one. As near as I can tell, it is >> all done with shrouds and stays. The backstay is a split wire with a >> pinching car that runs up and down to control backstay tension. The >> backstay wires runs to two turnbuckles on the transom. The spreaders are >> only slightly swept back but the rod shrouds run to a position just behind >> the mast. One runs to the top of the mast and the other part way up, both >> passing through the same point on the lower spreader. The top ones are >> extremely tight, with no flex/sag on the leeward side when sailing upwind. >> The lowers are a bit less tight but still no sag. There is a third rod, >> which I am forgetting where it terminates on the mast, but presumably lower >> down. Forestay is on a Harken furler. >> So how to proceed (or wait for the Rendezvous and get all the great minds >> together for a tuning session!) >> 1. Should I disconnect the backstay before doing anything with the >> shrouds? The car on the split stay can only go so high without running out >> of wire, so even at its topmost position, it is putting some tension on the >> backstay. I can tie another line to it and let it run up further but it >> makes more sense to me to remove them altogether or loosen the turnbuckles >> as much as possible. >> 2. Presumably, I would then loosen all the shrouds and then tighten the >> bolt on the furler to bring the mast forward, then recheck rake after >> tightening the shrouds somewhat? >> 3. After adjusting rake, how would the tension of the backstay be >> adjusted? Presumably minimal tension with the car at its topmost position? >> The tightness of those turnbuckles is going to affect the amount of >> tension the adjuster is able to generate, so that would seem an important >> adjustment, but I have not seen any guide to how to set that. >> 4. When to check the rake? With the backstay loose/disconnected or in >> its nominal highest position? >> 5. One thought I have had is that before doing any of the above actions, >> I should recheck the rake with the backstay removed just to see if it makes >> any significant difference. I know they were removed to take the boat out >> of the water last fall and again in the spring, so how the yard guys >> re-tensioned them I have no idea and I have not further adjusted them. >> Thanks- Dave >> >> Aries >> 1990 C&C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> <pastedGraphic.tiff> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >> bottom of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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