yesterday first trial under auxilliary power since acid cleaning the salt water heat exchanger...into a 15 kt apparent headwind, no appreciable sea
first sweet spot 1600 rpm 4-4.5 kts forward. coolant temp 170F second sweet spot 2200 rpm, 6-6.5 kts forward still 170F smooth but I little louder to be expected, third sweet spot 2800 rpm, 7+ kts louder than a like but bearable and coolant temp still between 170-180F Maybe she's running a little too cool now Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 12:28 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Dwight, > Very logical method. I may try that too. > > Chuck > > ------------------------------ > *From: *"dwight veinot via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc: *"dwight" <dwight...@gmail.com> > *Sent: *Tuesday, August 11, 2015 8:34:44 PM > > *Subject: *Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger > > I just wanted to give an update on cleaning the salt water side of the > heat exchanger on my Universal M4-30. I took the easy way out and used > chemicals and increased the rate of salt water exiting the exhaust from > around 1 gallon per minute before cleaning to over 3 gallons per minute > after cleaning at idle (1000 rpm). > > Here is a summary of what I did. I disconnected the inlet hose to the > salt water pump and tied it off high above the waterline so I did not have > to close the hull valve which is not located in the easiest of places to > reach on Alianna. I removed the pencil zinc from the heat exchanger and > inserted a blank plug. I bought 4L of concentrated (31.45%) muriatic acid > (same as hydrochloric acid) for about $10 from the local hardware store > and I diluted 2L of that concentrated acid 1 acid to 5 fresh water in a 3 > gallon plastic bucket...it is important to always add acid to water (just > like the alphabet goes A to W) and also to have a ready supply of water to > flush if you accidentally get some on your skin or in your eyes and also be > careful not to inhale fumes when you open the concentrate container. My > first degree was Hons Chem and I had many years of advising Dockyard staff > in the chemical cleaning facility for the Canadian Navy so I have a fair > knowledge of chemicals and their interaction with metals and their safe use. > So I ran the engine up with a section of hose from the salt water pump > into the bucket of acid mix and introduced about a gallon of the mix into > the heat exchanger and then stopped the engine. Let that soak for 10 > minutes and then started the engine again and introduced a second gallon of > acid mix, stopped the engine and let that soak for 10 minutes. When the > first batch exited the exhaust it was a dirty rust yellow color and the > flow exiting the exhaust already appeared much increased. Then after 10 > minutes soaking with the second batch I started the engine and introduced a > third gallon of acid mix, stopped the engine and let that soak for 5 more > minutes. The effluent from the exhaust got cleaner after the second and > third soaks and after 3 soaks it had no visible color. Then I reconnected > the hose for saltwater intake to the pump and ran the engine on idle for > about an hour. while I measured more accurately the water flow out the > exhaust which was over 3 times the rate before the cleaning at over 3 > gallons per minute on idle. I suppose the real test will come when I steam > into my first head wind and want the engine running at 3000 rpm or better > for more power but for now I feel quite assured that my over heat issue has > been addressed. I will replace the pencil zinc later but I must say it > does not get wasted that quickly since it has been insatlled for nearly 2 > seasons now and still seems to be quite intact so I guess it would do 3 > seasons at least. > > Anyway this process took about an hour, plus the celebration time while > the engine was running on idle after the cleaning and all seems well. My > thought is that acid cleaning is a lot easier and probably more effective > than mechanical cleaning with wooden dowels or wires. I will now do this > procedure (probably only one soaking) on a more regular basis because I > really think it did an excellent job. I believe phosphoric acid might also > do a good cleaning but it was not readily availbale without going to the > big city. I am a happy sailor tonight. Thanks to eveyone for the helpful > input, especially that video on Rydlyme from Chuck which Robert drew to my > attention. > > Dwight Veinot > C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* > Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS > d.ve...@bellaliant.net > > > On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 8:52 PM, dwight veinot <dwight...@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Rick, how did replacing the pressure cap on the fresh water side solve >> your problem. I have never checked the thermostat but the hose clamps do >> not appear to be leaking...there is an overflow drain right below the >> pressure cap. >> >> Dwight Veinot >> C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* >> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS >> d.ve...@bellaliant.net >> >> On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 12:30 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Dwight, >>> >>> >>> >>> I have an M35B (which is a newer engine but appears similar to the >>> M4-30) in Imzadi, and my process for cleaning the heat exchanger is >>> slightly different than Chuck’s but accomplishes the same thing. >>> >>> >>> >>> My heat exchanger is athwart the aft end of the engine. Access to the >>> heat exchanger is only practical through the cockpit locker on the >>> starboard side. Both cleaning the exchanger and changing the pencil zinc >>> are done from down in that locker. The end cap of the exchanger on the port >>> side of the boat is almost impossible without major surgery because of the >>> quarter berth. >>> >>> >>> >>> Shut off the raw water seacock. Remove the end cap and seal to open up >>> the chamber that includes the zinc and access to the cooling tubes for the >>> raw water. As with Chuck’s exchanger there are something like 30 tubes that >>> run through the body of the exchanger that holds the fresh water. You will >>> lose a gallon or two of raw water into the bilge, but you are not opening >>> up the fresh water side of the system at all. >>> >>> >>> >>> I use a rod and stiff wire brush, that I bought at the local sporting >>> goods store for about $20US, that is made for cleaning the barrel of a .22 >>> caliber rifle. The brush will clean the scale from inside the tubes very >>> well. I have also pushed a couple of chunks of corroded zinc out of the >>> tubes when I went more than a year without changing the pencil zinc and the >>> zinc was really used up. Push the rod and brush through each tube and then >>> pull it back out. Reassemble the end cap, turn on the seacock, and you are >>> good to go. >>> >>> >>> >>> The hardest part is cleaning and repacking the locker and climbing in an >>> out. I personally think every boat should come with its own midget, or with >>> a precocious 12 year old that has a mechanical engineering degree. >>> >>> >>> >>> My boat normally runs about 165-170 degrees, and will get to 185 or so >>> if I push it at hull speed for a while. Two years ago I had experience with >>> it climbing above 200 (which is why I got the tool for cleaning the heat >>> exchanger) but the final solution to the problem was replacing the pressure >>> cap on the fresh water side of the engine. Be sure to check out the cap, >>> thermostat, and hose clamps on the fresh water side if you have not done >>> so already. >>> >>> >>> >>> At the recommendation of my friend, who is a diesel mechanic and helped >>> with my repower 5 years ago, I change the zinc yearly and clean the >>> exchanger every two or three years. He recommended doing it every other >>> year if sailing in salt water to avoid salt buildup. He indicated there is >>> really no need to clean the fresh water side of the heat exchanger if you >>> keep proper coolant in the engine. >>> >>> >>> >>> Because there have been so many stories on the list about plugged >>> exhaust elbows on Yanmar engines, I asked about the need for cleaning the >>> exhaust riser on my Universal. He said the Universal/Westerbeke/Beta >>> engines are quite different than the elbows on the Yanmars, and very seldom >>> have problems. On the Yanmar 2GMF in his J/30, OTOH, removing the elbow and >>> cleaning it out is part of annual maintenance. >>> >>> >>> >>> Rick Brass >>> >>> Washington, NC >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Chuck >>> S via CnC-List >>> *Sent:* Sunday, August 09, 2015 9:35 AM >>> *To:* CNC boat owners, cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >>> *Cc:* Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> >>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger >>> >>> >>> >>> Hi Dwight, >>> >>> I do have the M4-30 and it when it ran hotter than normal, I clean the >>> little tubes with 1/8" wooden rods I buy from an art supply or hardware >>> store. I run my engine at 190 degrees. I thottle back if the temperature >>> gets above that. >>> >>> >>> >>> To clean: >>> >>> With the engine off and the seacock shut, I remove both ends of the >>> exchanger and simply push the wooden dowels through a few times. There are >>> about 30 to 40 tubes, but it's pretty easy. A diesel mechanic recommended >>> I remove the exchanger and have it acid cleaned to remove any scale from >>> the fresh water side. I haven't done that. I heard of a product you use >>> without disassembly, and then you flush it and replace your water and >>> antifreeze mix. I'll try and find that. >>> >>> >>> >>> Chuck >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> *From: *"dwight veinot via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >>> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>> *Cc: *"dwight" <dwight...@gmail.com> >>> *Sent: *Sunday, August 9, 2015 8:20:01 AM >>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 and backbone wiring >>> >>> >>> >>> Hi Chuck >>> >>> >>> >>> I recall reading in one of your C&C posts that you have an M4-30 and >>> that you dismantled and cleaned the heat exchanger. Is that correct and if >>> so what did you find inside? I mean how it’s built and was anything >>> clogging it? Also did you ever do any cleaning/maintenance where the salt >>> water from the heat exchanger enters the exhuast gas line? My M4-30 runs >>> great at 1600 rpm but when I run it at higher rpm’s it runs hotter than I >>> think it should, like at 2500 rpm the temp gage climbs to boiling and >>> sometimes 220 F but the engine is still smooth and strong, just hotter than >>> I would like to see. I would like to see more water exiting the boat and I >>> know my raw water pump is good since I have installed a new impeller with >>> no noticeable change in performance and I know the raw water feed to that >>> pump is not blocked, lots of flow into the bilge when I disconnect it from >>> the pump. Can yo give me any advice from your experience. >>> >>> >>> >>> Thanks >>> >>> dwight >>> >>> >>> Dwight Veinot >>> >>> C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* >>> >>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS >>> >>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >>> bottom of page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >>> >>> >>> >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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