As I wrote some time back: One very good source of problems in many of the older boats is the one or more multi-pole connectors in the engine wiring harness. They have often been there for twenty or more years without being touched and corrosion build up due to lack of current flow across the individual connectors can lead to excessive resistance in the various circuits, false alarms and poor starting.
I suggest as a first approach to trouble shooting any engine related starting or alarm problems, finding the connector(s), often there are more than one, pulling them apart and reconnecting them several times to clean corrosion off the contacts and then testing to see if the problem is resolved. I am an advocate of removing the connectors completely and replacing them by cutting each conductor back to good, corrosion free wire and rejoining them using appropriately sized and crimped heat shrink butt connectors. This will generally solve the immediate problem and also help reduce further corrosion related problems. In older boats where un-tinned wire is frequently found and extensive corrosion of individual conductors occurs, replacement of the entire length of wire with good quality marine grade tinned wire will help ensure trouble free operation. Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Boatless! On Aug 17, 2015, at 10:08, Michael Brown via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Now- what to do about the future- I am considering putting some > electrically conductive grease on the contacts before reassembling the > connector. The normal substance to use would be a dielectric grease, not a conductive grease, though at the 12 volt range that property does not come in to play much. Some interesting reading on the topic: http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm Note that even the best grease, correctly applied at the contact point, will not solve the problem of the wires just back of the connection corroding. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2015 00:06:43 -0500 From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring- Problem Solved! Message-ID: <CA+zaCRBoNCn=eGtKFXTOD7By2eJC4jriBjHwKTjOE1=flrv...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Thanks for letting us know what you found. I'm still curious to know if you have a glo-plug solenoid. If you don't have, can't fine, can't wait for tefgel then silicone dielectric grease (spark plug boot grease) can be found at any auto parts store and is a good alternative. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 16, 2015 5:14 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I wanted to report back on the latest on my engine panel. I was able to > get the connector in the engine compartment apart today. Two of the pins > were particularly black and all looked corroded. I cleaned them all and > put it back together and remarkably, the engine started with both buttons > held down. So that high resistance junction seems to have been the source > of the problem. It is such a rewarding feeling when all the work pays off > and a problem is solved. Thanks for all the advice and suggestions! > > Now- what to do about the future- I am considering putting some > electrically conductive grease on the contacts before reassembling the > connector. I may still butt connect all the wires this winter, but the > grease seems like a good option to retain good contact. Dave > > > > Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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