33-2 - second season with one, was purchased in excellent original condition, 
have had the whole thing apart and am upgrading most systems.

I agree with Jim's  points below and would add as few:

Check the lead keel for hairline cracks and bulges at the lower end of the 
keelboats.   It seems that water seeps into voids around the bolt, settles 
around the cast-in head of the bolt, freezes and expands.   I notice one in our 
yard (whitby ON) last winter with a section of lead broken clear of the keel.  
I could have stuck a screwdriver in and levered it off.   I then toured the 
yard looking for C&Cs of a similar vintage, and noticed this problem in 6 of 8. 
  The other 2 had more recent shoal keels installed.  Mine is showing early 
onset.  This is a 5-7k repair.  *****. My Single biggest caveat and not well 
understood by surveyors, probably a recent thing.  

Check the holding tank for cracks, and stink.  It may need to be replaced, 
about 600. You can remove the plywood atop the v-berth easily.  If original 
rubber hoses you will want to change.  Not fun....

Look under the settee, port side, where the shower drain pump is.   Check the 
base of the bulkhead there for Rot or water damage.

With the boat out of the water, check the flat run of the keel where the keel 
stub begins.   This can be a flex point and may require some repair.   

Bring a power screwdriver and lift the floorboards and look for fractured 
tabbing where the hull and liner are bonded.  Especially forward of the 
maststep.  Not a huge deal but a handy negotiating point.   

Make sure the transmission works properly.  Older transmissions of this type 
have a problem with the bronze cone and its mating surface becoming glazed and 
slipping, in forward, and only when hot.    Repair is easy for a shade tree 
mechanic but is often misdiagnosed by professionals and missed by surveyors.

Checks engine mounts.  If they have not been replaced, they will probably be 
tired.  Look at the engine at low idle.  How much is it hopping around?

The ventilation sucks on these boats.   Check for mold/mildew even in a well 
kept boat.

Check the engine insulation.  Probably crumbling and messy.   Hard to replace 
and as noted, engine access is a challenge unless you are built like Gollum.  
Basic service access is fine.

Check the stanchion bases for cracks.  $70CDN ea.

The gel coat cracks at the stern are not an issue.  It's a 30 year old boat.  

The only coring in the hull is in the flat, forward top sides, and the 
through-deck fittings are generally very well done.   If the boat has not been 
neglected, or butchered, chances are the deck will be dry.

It is well worth the cost of a lift to inspect the keel and hull as noted above.

While you are at it, check that the rudder is parallel to the keel.  I have 
seen this in other C&Cs, bent, missed by surveyors.  In reverse, the big, 
unsupported rudder  is quite vulnerable.

Look down the top sides, in the area of the chain plates,  (Or equivalent) 
especially if the boat has a hydraulic back stay adjuster.  In several earlier 
C&Cs I looked at, the top sides were buckled, as if the bow and stern had been 
raised.  Many were like this, never saw it on a survey.

Ok, that's a ton, but looked very closely at a LOT of boats....

All that said.... I really like the 33-2, though I have 8-footitis already.   I 
think it stands up well, and avoids many of the problems common to older 
generations.   The 33-2 is great if you want a day sailer/weekender that is 
comfortable for two, and sails like a demon.   Rarely do I not outrun other 
boats, and never yet by any thing smaller or the same size.  When I take other 
boat owners out, especially in light air, they are amazed, and I am not a 
particularly skilled sailor.   RACER/cruiser for sure.   Crack the sheets a bit 
in heavy air for the first time and be prepared...  Wow.  Maybe that's the 
"death-trap" part.  Lol....

You will want a spinnaker...  Yeeeeeee haw!     ;-)

I hope that helps, good luck.

Dave.













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