Patrick,


I concur with your degree of failure chart with the added "bad" comment of 
balsa that has rotted to black goo that smells of swamp and acidic polyester.



I do have pictures but they are not posted online nor organized well.  That 
organizational project will be waiting until Calypso is sailing again.  PM me a 
email address and I will send a few next week (I'm currently out on the WA 
coast with the Mrs. and our dog for some R&R).



If the failed core around the deck fills was shallow enough you could dig it 
out to firm balsa and refill with epoxy of other repair materials I would call 
that good to go unless it was in a highly stressed area.  In several areas I 
dug out failed balsa back to firm core that was stained darker than new balsa.  
Once dried it tested well for structural integrity.  The use of light hammer 
taps is my favorite way to confirm the extent of damage.



I did find some filler used by Bruckmann's that was orange to brown in color.  
I refer to this low tech polyester based filler as "bog".  Much of the bog on 
Calypso that has seen stress or water intrusion has fractured.  If your deck 
fills are close to where the deck balsa ends and  the glass tapers back to 
solid (for the hull to deck joint) the C&C factory may have added a filler.



If the boat is not headed into extreme conditions, hard racing, or way offshore 
a little wet of mildly damaged balsa in low stress areas should not interfere 
with a sailing season.  Light repairs and preventing further damage, especially 
re-bedding leaking hardware, in my opinion, is a better investment of limited 
repair time and resources.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle

________________________________
From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Patrick Davin via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 3:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core damage

Since we're on the topic of balsa core decay, I had a question about this - 
having just finished resealing all the deck fill ports (diesel, waste, 3 
waters) on my boat.

All had some softness in the balsa, two had obvious water ingress (in the past) 
evident by black staining, minor rust on fasteners (bolts/screws), etc.

Question is how do you judge the *degree* of coring decay?

Mild = ? (still wood colored, but squishy/soft?)
Moderate = ? (dark staining and squishy/soft?)
Bad = same as above but covering more than a 1 to 2 inch section?
Severe = ?

Purchase survey 7 months ago found no wet core issues via sounding, but did 
cite leaking fill ports so the need to rebed was known.

Oddly one fill port (diesel) had what appeared to be dark brownish foam coring 
instead of wood, on only one side of the port (outboard, towards the toe rail). 
Maybe a prior owner injected it?

Given I think what I found would fall under "mild to moderate", and percussive 
sounding found no issues further from the fills, I think the core decay is 
limited to just the immediate vicinity of the ports (water entry was probably 
through the fastener holes), and since the wood didn't feel presently wet or 
saturated, it was either a past leak or it's a very slow leak. I rebedded with 
butyl tape.

Martin do you happen to have any pictures of your core? I assume you had some 
that would be good examples of more severe core decay?

-Patrick
S/V Violet Hour
1984 LF 38, Seattle, WA


---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com<mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc:
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:30:21 +0000
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

 ...

When you start your project, evaluate how wet and the overall condition of the 
balsa before fully charting your course.

If the balsa is damp (<30% moisture per the Baltek web site) and still looks 
tan and smells like balsa with a polyester undertone it may be OK to make small 
repairs around the deck penetrations.  If you are able to go this route, be 
aware it is difficult and slow to dry out large areas of balsa using only the 
fastener holes.

Let me know if you are interested in more balsa repair techniques / info 
learned from making extensive repairs to Calypso's deck.

Martin

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


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