The correct approach in my opinion. I always figured that the whole point to
having straight pipe threads in the first place was so that you could make
something like a compression flange fitting in one part and then cut a regular
tapered thread on the end.
Makes a lot of sense for tanks, and a boat is kind of like an inside out tank.
Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL
---- Russ & Melody via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
In a re-fit many years ago I looked for replacement thru-hulls.
After not having success finding a replacement I
got a NPT cutter head for a 'Rigid' pipe
threading machine, from the local rental shop.
You can adjust the "bite" of the cutter so I
started off loose and cut some taper threads by
hand. With the replacement ball valve nearby I
kept at it until there was the desired fit. After
the first one the rest were easy.
So, now my C&C original thru-hulls, which were in good shape, are taper thread.
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island
At 08:33 PM 26/02/2016, you wrote:
>I think finding bronze NPS (straight) threaded
>ball valves is a difficult task. For example,
>every single valve sold by Defender is NPT (taper).
>
>
>From: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>Rick Brass via CnC-List
>Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 3:02 PM
>To: <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Cc: <mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>Rick Brass
>Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1
>
>Joe;
>
>The bad news is I donât believe that anyone
>makes the flush thru hulls used on our classic
>C&Cs anymore. All the ones I have seen are a
>smaller OD than the recesses in our hulls.
>
>The good news is that you rarely need to replace
>a bronze thru hull. You just need one of the
>thru hull step wrenches shown on page 118 of the
>Buck Algonquin catalog and a strong helper to
>hold the step wrench on the outside of the boat
>while you remove the old valve from the threads
>of the existing thru hull from inside the hull.
>(you can also buy one at Lowes or Home Depot,
>but it is called a plumberâs step wrench or something similar)
>
>Both my boats came with brass gate valves on
>most of the thru hulls, instead of proper
>seacocks. When I got my 25, back in 1994, I
>launched into replacing the gate valves,
>starting with the cockpit scuppers. I screwed up
>both the thru hulls because of my ignorance, and
>had a heck of a time finding a flush thru hull
>to replace the ones I had to cut out of the hull.
>
>I finally found a pair of thru hulls at a
>chandlery in NJ, across the river from Philly
>a place sort of like an OLD hardware store with
>lots of out of date hardware in stock. (Donât
>you love poking around in those sort of places?)
>And the guy at the chandlery explained how you
>are supposed to get the old valve off the thru
>hull without damaging the thru hull. Once I
>bought the wrench, replacing all the valves was pretty straight forward.
>
>BTW, the thru hulls should be bronze, not brass.
>And the seacocks should be either bronze or
>Marlon. You donât want to use brass if you are
>in salt or brackish water. Thru hulls come with
>straight threads. So do proper seacocks. Most of
>my thru hulls were clamped to the wood backing
>plates with a nut, so I did not have to use
>seacocks with a flange on them. But I have
>learned that ball valves intended for plumbing
>come with tapered threads, so I had to make sure
>I ordered ball valves with straight threads that
>matched the threads on the thru hull.
>
>Rick Brass
>Imzadi C&C 38 mk 2
>la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
>Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>From: CnC-List
>[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
>Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 12:59 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
>Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1
>
>Try here:
>
><http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf>http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf
>
>The company is near us.
>
>Joel
>
>On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 12:52 PM, Joe at
>Zialater via CnC-List
><<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my
>1975 30 MK1.
>
>They are flush to the bottom of the hull and have a flange diameter of 3.5
>inches and a 1.25 inch hole. I have tried Groco and Perko but neither has
>the correct size although they both have brass flush mount versions.
>
>Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might find the original
>replacement. I would hate to have to modify the hole or use epoxy to make a
>non-original thru hull fit.
>
>Thanks for any ideas on this.....
>
>Joe
>
>Zia - 1975 C&C 30 MK1
>Annapolis
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Email address:
><mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>To change your list preferences, including
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>
>
>
>
>--
>Joel
>301 541 8551
>
>
>----------
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>
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