I haven't messed with my stanchions, but I've had success rebedding other
deck hardware with butyl tape.  There's a useful guide here that also
discusses the reasons to use butyl as opposed to 4200:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

It's by a guy who sells butyl tape, so who knows, but it makes sense to me
and I found his method to be straightforward and effective.  I didn't trust
myself to get the wait-and-tighten technique right with 4200.

Sam
35-3 Scoundrel (f/k/a Spanish Dancer)
SF

On Wed, Jul 13, 2016 at 5:07 PM, Chris Duer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Assuming we're not talking about severe enough bends that the stanchion
> has a crease, that is a reasonable plan.  There likely isn't any rot
> because the deck core terminates before the stanchions and toe rail.
>
> Check your stanchion bases for vertical cracks on the outboard side (in
> line with the set screws).  You may need to replace them, I did on my 1978
> 34.
>
> Chris Duer
> 1978 C&C 34 #117
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 13, 2016, at 6:59 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The stanchions on my '78 C&C 34 are wobbly and some are bent.  They also
> leak a bit.  The previous owner told me I should:
>
> 1. take the stanchions off and straighten the bent ones in a vice
> 2. clean stanchions and the holes in prep for re-bedding
> 3. re-bed with 3M 4200 but don't tighten fully
> 4. once the 4200 has cured, snug them up
>
> Is this the way I should do it?
>
> I'm thinking I should also look out for rot and learn how to solve that in
> case I find it.
>
> I have a feeling I should eventually re-bed all the deck hardware but one
> thing at time :)
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
>
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