Would using an epoxy like this make any difference?
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Graham
1981 C&C 32 # 107Spellbound
On Monday, August 29, 2016 5:48 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I would second Dave's suggestion to NOT use epoxy on interior wood work. I did
that in the past on my cabin sole’s first rebuild and for the second set of
flooring I simply used 4-5 coats of Awlgrip’s Awlwood product and finished it
off with a coat or two of matte varnish (the first time I used gloss varnish
and didn’t care for it…). That said, I did use epoxy for the sides and
undersides, where it would not be seen, for water intrusion purposes.
Check out Awlwood. Pretty nice product.
Best,Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit
On Aug 29, 2016, at 2:55 PM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Imo- I think the best reason not to use epoxy on the companionway steps is that
it is probably not really necessary, especially on teak. Second best reason
is cost, third is repairability vs varnish. Yer basic general purpose epoxy is
too thick in my opinion for easy varnishing, (btdt several times), and epoxy
degrades in uv. (Requires varnish anyway to protect, so you'll still be
varnishing). If epoxy is necessary, There are formulations available, used on
bar tables and the like, which are better suited for being used as a brush-on
coating. Also, there are plenty of other brands than WEST, that work fine.
Composites Canada has a good selection for those north of the border.
Dave - multi-epoxied as is his 33-2
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 18:40:48 +0000
From: "Hoyt, Mike" <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
To: Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>, "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps
Message-ID:
<169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Steve
In the past my friend Andy had great success with varnish over West epoxy on
their former C&C 25 Dry Red. I tried to do the same on our former Niagara 26
Full Tilt 2 and always had sags etc in the epoxy.
This past winter I used the 105 resin / 207 slow hardener on the advice of Andy
and others. Since the sole was comprised of a single sheet of ? inch teak and
holly that cost over $600 I wanted it protected and to look good. There were
no sags or obvious bubbles. I did a light sand between coats as well. Note
that this was in my garage with temperatures around 50 degrees Fahrenheit or 10
Celsius.
It was also suggested to me not to use the gloss version of Epiphanes in favour
of their matte finish. I really liked the end result
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
greatly appreciated!
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
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