Usually, there is a shop that specializes in alternator and starter repairs for 
cars somewhere nearby.  Google that for the best price.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

>     On November 1, 2016 at 2:26 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>     I took the alternator out of the boat last weekend so I could get it 
> tested.  Any suggestions on where to take it?  Would a good auto repair shop 
> be able to do this, or do I need someone more specialized.  Dave
> 
>     Aries
>     1990 C&C 34+
>     New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>         > > On Oct 3, 2016, at 12:07 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> >         If it's rf noise generated by the alternator it may be coming in 
> > through your GPS antenna as well as data or power lines.  If it is rf noise 
> > you should be able to hear it with a small AM radio held nearby (tune to 
> > around 1400 KHz).   I still think your voltage regulator is suspect. When 
> > the battery reaches its maximum charge of approximately 14.2 volts, the 
> > regulator will then limit the alternator's output. The battery acts as a 
> > buffer so that may be what's causing the problem to sometimes not show with 
> > the engine on..   If the engine has been off for a while the battery 
> > voltage may fall in the 12's and it may take a while for it to overcharge 
> > into the 14's where your chart plotter may start to act erratically again.  
> >  When you turn off the engine it may take a few minutes for the voltage to 
> > drop back into a safe level.   You said you are measuring in the 14 volt 
> > range with the engine on.  If it is above 14.2 that would be suspect. Jerry 
> >  J7J
> > 
> > 
> >         -----Original Message-----
> >         From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> >         To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> >         Cc: Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
> >         Sent: Mon, Oct 3, 2016 11:08 am
> >         Subject: Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem
> > 
> >         You could try something like this:
> >         
> > http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEWMAR-PC-25-Noise-Filter-Power-Conditioner-25-amps-/231859240381?hash=item35fbe33dbd:g:Zn0AAOSwPc9W0ftz&vxp=mtr
> >          
> >         Oscilloscope (scope) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscilloscope FYI
> >         If you know any ham radio operators, they probably know where to 
> > find one to borrow.
> >          
> >         Your plotter also could just be nuts ;)
> >         Joe
> >         Coquina
> >          
> >          
> >         From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> > David Knecht via CnC-List
> >         Sent: Monday, October 03, 2016 09:56
> >         To: CnC CnC discussion list
> >         Cc: David Knecht
> >         Subject: Re: Stus-List Chart plotter problem
> >          
> >         Hi Joe and thanks for your input.  Some answers below.
> >          
> >         Aries
> >         1990 C&C 34+
> >         New London, CT
> > 
> >         <image001.png>
> > 
> > 
> >         On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:11 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> > 
> >         Some things to try:
> >         1.       Run the plotter off its own battery. Little 6 ah AGM 
> > batteries are cheap enough if you don’t have a spare battery sitting around.
> >         Given the intermittent nature of the problem, this would be 
> > challenging to do long enough to be definitive.  I am also not sure it will 
> > identify the source of the problem since it appears to be the power (see 
> > below).
> > 
> >         2.       Put a scope on the DC bus to see what, if any, AC/noise is 
> > on the line. Include an engine start with this.
> >         I don’t have a scope and have not used one.  What kind of device 
> > would you do this with?
> > 
> >         3.       Disconnect the NMEA interconnection and see what happens.
> >         As I said, when this happened last week, the NMEA input was 
> > disconnected from the chart plotter, so this seems to be coming from the 
> > power connection.  What is frustrating is that yesterday, I started the 
> > engine twice, once before and once after the race, and the chart plotter 
> > behaved perfectly and never beeped once.  Nothing was obviously 
> > different??????
> >          
> >          
> >          
> >         4.       Check the NMEA connection for configuration. Does the 
> > plotter send and receive data or just send? No need to have the NMEA input 
> > line connected if there is no data headed that way. 
> >         5.       Put a laptop on the NMEA connection or run the diagnostic 
> > window on the plotter, if it has one, and read the raw NMEA stream to see 
> > if it is getting some odd data or any data at all if it should not be.
> >         6.       Put ferrites on all incoming wiring.
> >         7.       Check for ground loops and NMEA isolation*
> >         *
> >         This one is a bit tricky. First off, make sure the power supply and 
> > ground connections are at exactly the same place as your other electronics. 
> > Ground loops are bit complicated to explain and hard to find, but the short 
> > version is this step will eliminate some of them. Second is check with the 
> > manufacturer to see if your plotter NMEA connections are true marine 
> > standard opto-isolated. It is very possible to use direct wiring to NMEA 
> > data and not isolate it, my laptop/plotter does just that, but optical 
> > isolation prevents various stray voltage and ground issues from messing up 
> > the data.  Equipment is fairly resilient now, but back in the day an engine 
> > start could generate noise that would totally screw up electronics. Even 
> > now I will start an airplane with all radios and nav equipment off and then 
> > turn it on. I once was delivering an airplane that had a screwy alternator 
> > I had to switch off to use the radios and nav gear and then switch back on 
> > when the battery got low.
> >         BTW – my boat is wired so the engine start battery is usually 
> > separate at engine start and has no effect at all on the electronics. They 
> > don’t combine until charging voltage is present for a few minutes. Is yours 
> > like that?
> >         Joe
> >         Coquina
> >         C&C 35 MK I
> >          
> >          
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