Thanks.   The more I look at it the messier it gets.   I'm on a mooring and
live on solar power so this has to be better than what I could do by
shooting foam into empty space between the inset and the cabinet.  I know
that I have a moulded insert like Dennis describes.  I know this because
when I got the boat (years ago), it was loose and rattling around in the
cabinetry.  I fixed it (oh why, why?) by gluing with 5200 along the flange
and clamping to the counter top.   The counter top is 1/2 ply with a
laminate surface (no insulation, none, nada) and is probably screwed on the
edges to the rest of the underlying cabinet.  The screws are, I suspect,
hidden underneath the laminate.  I'm leaning toward cutting the countertop
all the way around near the edge then replace after insulating from above.
  Of course the ice-box extends beyond and underneath the side locker so a
significant piece of vertical teak ply cabinetry will need to be removed
....   Much to ponder!



On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 2:12 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hi David,
>
> When I insulated the ice box in our C&C 27, I couldn’t imagine pulling it
> all apart.  I drilled a rows of holes where I would later rivet in an
> aluminum 1/2’ "angle iron”, and used the two-part foam from Tab Plastic.
> They have a unit you wear, and mixing tips - buy several.  Months of
> stewing, careful drilling, and I poked and discovered lots of empty space,
> and about an inch of dried course insulation, sorta like that used for
> flower arranging.  The foam was injected in a few minutes, easy part of the
> job, and our ice lasted for over a week.  I built a clear plastic shelf
> with air-holes to keep the food out of the ice water, and we had a good
> time cruising Barkely Sound.
>
> Don’t make it such a project you can’t be sailing. . .
> 2 cents, Lee
>
>
> On Jan 25, 2017, at 10:07 37AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> David,
>
> Did you read this? http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/refrigeration
>
>
> Don't know how the reefer cabinetry in your 33-1 is made but in my 35-1
> it's a large molded insert.  Removing the fiddle rails just exposed the top
> of the molded insert.  There was no joint under the rails.  My buddy with a
> sister boat pulled the rails and cut the countertop under the rails to
> remove the icebox in order to add insulation.
>
> Depending on how your icebox is made, I'd think long and hard before
> tackling adding insulation.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Jan 24, 2017 5:00 PM, "David Paine via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Someone stop me before I go too far ....
>>
>> I'd like to rebuild/insulate the ice box on my C&C 33-1 in preparation
>> for the installation of a AB cold machine that I acquired recently.  To to
>> insulate properly,  I am going to have to pull the ice box cabinet apart
>> and possibly create and install a new, smaller, box with actual insulation.
>>   The teak joinery (miters and the like) on the top of the cabinet (the
>> fiddles) and around the sink look really tight and good so, if possible,
>> I'd like to save those and do this as non-destructively as possible.  I've
>> noticed that much of the woodwork in these boats is held in place with
>> corroded Robertson head brass screws and I expect to find those beneath the
>> plugs on the teak trim.  Other than that, how the cabinet box is held
>> together is a mystery to me.  Any suggestions and experience (woeful and
>> otherwise) would be much appreciated!
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> David
>>
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