Randy,

 

When I rebed my chainplates 2 years ago – had to dig out the wet balsa and 
replace with epoxy using the chainplates wrapped in wax paper as plugs / forms 
– found the chainplates themselves were quite corroded on the back side which 
was against the bulkhead.  Several of the stainless bolts were severely rusted 
and the chainplates had tiny cracks fully through the metal at the bolt holes.  
Had new chainplates fabricated.  

 

As you are in fresh water it may not be as much of an issue, but if your boat 
lived much of its life in saltwater previously, there may be damage to the 
metal.  Make sure you closely examine the chainplates for any corrosion!  

 

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 10:05 PM
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: RANDY <randy.staff...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates

 

Thanks Dennis (and Gary and Sam).  Let me see where I stand on Tuesday - I may 
be ready to epoxy if I can do the bent nail and acetone thing tomorrow.  Let's 
call or text on Tuesday.

 

Gary - my chainplate covers are aluminum and still in good shape, just needed a 
really good cleaning (probably 44 years' worth of various sealant jobs built up 
on their undersides).

 

Sam - yes my chainplates bolt to fiberglass "knees" tabbed to the hull.  And 
the chainplates and knees are in good shape - no sign of weakening from 
exposure to moisture.  I just want to make sure I do a proper job of sealing it 
all up so I don't get more coring in the deck going forward.  Unfortunately it 
looks like my boat's previous owners didn't do a proper job (e.g. per Don 
Casey's prescriptions) of keeping this area sealed, and a little bit of coring 
occurred.  The starboard side was all gooped up with clear silicone, and the 
port side had an ineffective bead of white caulk around the edge of the cover, 
and both sides had hard-as-rock probably original white-colored sealant under 
those other sealants.

 

I'll be using polysulfide (Life Caulk) per Don Casey for the re-bedding sealant.

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

  _____  

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: "cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: "Dennis" <capt...@gmail.com <mailto:capt...@gmail.com> >
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 4:30:09 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates

 

Randy,

 

You're on the right track.  Wish I'd known you were doing that, I would have 
stopped by and taken a peek.  I'm back up in the mountains now.

 

If it was me, I'd remove the wet core as far back as I could with bent nail, 
etc., dry it with acetone and/or heat gun, tape the area, inject some neat 
epoxy until it was level with the deck, use bent nail to agitate it then 
quickly suck out the epoxy.  That will coat the exposed surfaces so the 
thickened epoxy will bond better.  Then I'd inject thickened epoxy, let it cure 
and re-install the chalnplates.  Don't forget to chamfer the hole so the 
bedding plate doesn't sit down on a square edged cut.

 

I'm headed back down to the airport Tuesday afternoon.  Got to pick up my ski 
buddies Wednesday morning. I might be able to swing by the dry storage on the 
way.

 

Dennis C.

 

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