I replaced all of my wire-rope halyards with all rope.  I also replaced
some of my sheaves (http://www.zephyrwerks.com/), since the edges were so
sharp that I felt they would fray the rope halyards. I just used ordinary
double braid - not high tech line.  Unless you're a racer who is losing
races by seconds, I would be more concerned with my sails and my crew work.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 7:50 AM, Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thank you all for your suggestions. I have decided to replace my
> wire-to-rope halyard with 3/8 Samson MLX (doublebraid cover over Dyneema
> core). Now my only question is whether to strip to the core for the "wire
> section" of the new halyard. For me, there is still the sheave question.
> Several of you have said your existing sheaves took a larger rope, others
> replaced the sheave. I do believe my 1980 LF38 main halyard sheave was
> intended for wire only. I don't believe I can show the photo here on this
> list, but I have placed it in a public Dropbox link (below) if anyone is
> interested to see it. The close-up shows the existing 3/16 wire in the
> sheave. Very careful measurements of this and other photos at different
> levels of magnification and angles indicate the sheave width (at the top
> inside - without jumping up on the "rim" of the sheave) is slightly less
> than double the diameter of the 3/16 wire. To me that suggests that even a
> 3/8 rope could squeeze down into the sheave under tension and cause a lot
> of friction or chafing. Seems best to strip to the core (stripping to core
> said to be ok with this line) for the section from inside the mast to the
> sail head. Comments? Dyneema at this size is supposed to be >8000 lb
> strength, so I think even a knot on the shackle wouldn't weaken it to any
> dangerous level. (I have no splicing skill.)  Double bowline for slick line
> (tightened up under winch tension) or other suggestion? Thanks. Photo at
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/gb7cg1b9rovjz56/DSC_0150cropped.jpg?dl=0
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.dropbox.com_s_gb7cg1b9rovjz56_DSC-5F0150cropped.jpg-3Fdl-3D0&d=DwMFaQ&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=gIZY5VIqYlxbo8flOs0fwWX47eflYgLxoT7c1HcJjS8&s=g64geOpNs_tStkYe5Ze0iivp_lcmvJEkIsrsCMz6rAU&e=>
> Tom
>
> On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 9:22 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: Dave S <syerd...@gmail.com>
>> To: "C&c Stus List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Sun, 14 May 2017 20:46:24 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard
>> This is exactly what I did as well.   No problem at all.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>> --------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
>> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 20:12:03 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard
>>
>> I replaced the wire-rope halyards on both my 25 and my 38 with all rope.
>> No problem with the sheeves on either. And I stitched a messemger line to
>> the end of the rope, pulled out the old halyard, stitched the messenger to
>> the end of the new halyard, and pulled it down through the mast. Easy-Peesy.
>>
>>
>>
>> And as a  bonus, if you still have the oversized halyards made of yacht
>> braid, you can switch to a modern line and go down a size or two on the
>> diameter.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>>
>> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>
>
>
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>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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