Tom,

This is how I do it:

1.  drain water from the fresh water tank (does not need to be completely empty)
2. drain water from the water heater
3. highly advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models available 
from RV supply; but I strongly suggest getting one with TWO valves 
(https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1507576917&sr=1-2&keywords=water+heater+bypass)
4.  disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump)
5. - purge any remnants of water from the system using compressed air (for that 
you may need an adapter that can be purchased from any RV place or online 
(e.g.: https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) - 
you may need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of hose, 
nipples etc.).
6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time (do it for 
each faucet on cold and hot water)
7. this would be especially complicated for hot water, as your heater would 
have plenty of water to be purged.
8. engage the water heater bypass
9. disconnect pump from the supply line from the tank.
10. attach to the pump a length of appropriate hose and put it into a jug of 
antifreeze
11. run the pump drawing AF from the jug until the pink stuff comes out of each 
and every faucet
12. repeat 4.-6., this time to evacuate any remnants of AF

You would need to modify this list to get the water out of the galley pump and 
water lines. It would be a modification of 4.-6. Or is the foot pump getting 
water from the lake? If so, you simply close the through-hull, disconnect the 
hose, put it into the AF jug and pump. (btw. the same procedure as for the 
supply side of the head).

If you have a cockpit shower, don’t forget it in your procedure

Never put AF into the water heater - it is difficult to drain, you would need 
5-6 gal of it to fill it, supposedly, it can turn into a cotton-candy-like 
mush, if heated and you would have a hard time getting the taste out of the 
water after this.

If you have an ice-box, the chances are that you have a pump that pumps out 
water from the bottom of it. Make sure that you winterise it, as well.

If you have a drain in the head (shower sump?), make sure that you winterise 
it, as well.

I hope I don’t need to mention that you need to winterise properly the head. It 
is not enough to just put some AF into the bowl and pump it out. You need to 
put AF into the supply side, as well.

If this list scares you, it should not; it is much easier than it sounds.

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON
(the above procedure is still ahead of me, but I usually do it on the hard)




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Lynch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 14:59
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Lynch <thomasmly...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system?

My system:

40 gallon tank estimated
Water heater
Pressurized water pump
2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump
1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump.

My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI.  And no I cannot sail it to warmer 
climate for the winter.

Tom Lynch
S/V IndoIrish
C&C 33 MKII
Bayfield WI - Lake Superior
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