Thanks Josh!
Very helpful indeed!
You are a font of excellent knowledge.
Thanks again,
Bruce Whitmore
Sent from Samsung tablet.
-------- Original message --------
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: 5/22/2018 4:51 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Fwd: Question about banjo bolt seal washers
I had taken my previous answers off list but Bruce Whitmore asked so now I
resurrected the old email and providing it to everyone.
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, May 6, 2018, 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F
To: Nauset Beach <nausetbe...@optonline.net>
Brian,
Below is an excerpt from a discussion with my Yanmar parts dealer. At the end
you can pickup the part numbers.
See the attached pictures for screen shots of the McMaster-Carr product pages.
Josh
I have an old Yanmar 3HM35F. In the fuel system it uses one time use copper
crush washers. Between leaking and constantly replacing these things are a
pain in the butt! It looks like yanmar replaced them in later model engines
with seal washers (metal with captured rubber o-rings). The engine in mind is
the 3YM30.
I have what I think are part equivalents. I called yanmar parts customer
service to get some specs and their thoughts. They obviously can't give a
certification/authorization to use parts which are not "made for my engine".
I'm not asking you to do that either. What I would like is to find out if you
have the parts listed below and if you could pull them for me to personally
compare. Obviously if you have any thoughts on the subject I'm glad to hear it.
Gasket 8 thick x1- copper = 104884-59170- seal wash = 22190-080000
Gasket 8 x3- copper = 23414-080000- seal wash = 22190-080002
Gasket 12 x6- copper = 23414- 120000- seal wash = 22190-120000
On Sun, May 6, 2018, 11:22 AM Nauset Beach via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Josh, nice videos. The priming bulb would be great to have to facilitate this
process. May install one next time I change the fuel filters and am not under
time pressure to get the boat launched… Am still on the hard over an hour’s
drive away with an early Thursday AM launch time. Can the seal washers from
McMaster be tightened multiple times? Unlike the Yanmar copper washers… Do
you have specific seal washers at McMaster that work in the Yanmar fuel system?
Have replaced the 8 and 12 mm Yanmar washers when replacing the fuel filter
housing. A “professional” mechanic had over tightened the supply banjo bolt
stripping the threads. Found this suggestion on line and not sure if it makes
sense; not sure if this would force the air past / through the injectors leave
the system fully primed. Do not want to cause more problems: “If your fuel
system is now filled with air, I would try the following. Engage the
decompression levers, close the cooling water thru hull, pull the engine stop,
and then spin the engine using the starter. Hopefully that will pull fuel
through the system and return any air back to the tank. If you just try to
start the engine and air is the system, you will get air into the high pressure
injector lines and starting will be a problem.” May just go the route Edd
suggested and do it manually… Any other suggestions? Thanks,Brian From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2018 8:26 PM
To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-listcom>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about bleeding a Yanmar 3GM30F I have found
that the 3HM35F (almost the same engine) primes very easily. I make more than
problems by opening the official bleed screws. They will perpetually leak. In
fact, I JB welded the screw on the engine filter and the HP pump in place. I
have replaced the associated banjo fitting copper washers with seal washers.
Yanmar makes some which I can provide the part numbers for or you can use seal
washers from McMaster-Carr. This was a huge upgrade that completely eliminated
fuel and air leaks. I have also installed a priming bulb in the fuel supply
line which helps prime the entire system including the racor. When I prime the
system I prime the racor and then I only loosen the fuel banjo fitting into the
engine filter. Once it is clear I loosen the banjo at the HP pump. 2 points
and that's it. With copper washers you need to replace them but with seal
washers they are reusable. https://youtu.be/mdHIt14l0R8
https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On Fri, May 4, 2018, 6:06 PM Nauset Beach via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:I pulled the fuel hose off the tank pickup nipple as part of cleaning the
tank – though did not really need to do so. Now presumably there is some air
in the fuel hose. Do I have to bleed that air using the tiny manual fuel pump
on the side of the engine? Or can I try to start the engine [it has been
winterized for 6 months] and hopefully pull the air “bubble” to the fuel filter
/ engine? There is ~ 6’ of fuel hose from the tank to a Racor, then another 4’
of fuel hose to reach the fuel pump, so it would take a long time and be quite
a bit of fuel that is pumped out of the small Yanmar fuel filter bleed screw.
Hoping to minimize the time and inevitable diesel dribbles on the side of the
engine. Thanks,Brian_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
