Lapping compound is needed to smooth out the surfaces so that they join
properly and provide a good seal. If they aren't smooth, then the
possibility of a leak is far greater. Check out that link I provided on the
servicing of them and it explains it really well.

On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 2:21 PM Daniel Cormier via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok, so I finally got them freed up. For one I used a monkey wrench and it
> gave after considerable force. The second required a 2' pipe slide into the
> end of my huge monkey wrench and came free with the leverage with no damage
> to anything as far as I can tell. The drums needed scrubbing with a
> non-scratching scouring pad and I re-assembled them with lubricant. One
> drum looked smooth, the other showed a little black and tarnish. I don't
> have any lapping compound so hopefully I don't get any leaks... how
> important is the lapping compound step?
>
> Thanks for all the help guys!
>
> Dan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 25, 2018, at 9:22 PM, G Collins via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> if memory serves, you can take off the handle and fit a regular socket on
> the stub.  Put a breaker bar on that and heave away.
>
> Mine needed to be re-ground to stop leaking, I used a socket wrench on it
> as it made it a lot faster to turn the cone.
>
> Do you need a thin wrench to re-tighten when you have everything loose?  I
> ground one down to fit the inside nut.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2018-05-25 9:34 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Thanks Rick,
>
> So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both
> seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench
> liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I
> stopped up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively
> down both scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles
> and put a wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with
> a rubber mallet to no avail.
>
> There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with
> anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of
> anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in
> storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe
> trick but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will
> send an update then!
>
> Thanks for all the help guys!
>
> Dan
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dan;
>>
>>
>>
>> The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve –
>> kind of like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.
>>
>>
>>
>> The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug
>> that looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline.
>> There is a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered
>> plug into the tapered body of the through hull.
>>
>>
>>
>> If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove
>> it, just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to
>> soak in a bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet.
>> Neither the nut or the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A
>> sound tap or two will move the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break
>> the bond of the internal corrosion.
>>
>>
>>
>> When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you
>> don’t damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the
>> valve. A smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially
>> what keeps water from leaking around the plug.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
>> C. via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
>> *To:* CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Cc:* Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>>
>>
>>
>> With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a
>> liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances
>> are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a
>> way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the
>> top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the
>> plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total),
>> sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have
>> loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my
>> mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from
>> undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from
>> the removed hose?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the
>> outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it
>> in the top?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't
>> damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting
>> in there and doing it's thing...
>>
>>
>>
>> The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be
>> a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them.
>> They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well
>> adhered to the hull.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks guys, will update with progress!
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
>>
>> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Dan,
>>
>>
>>
>> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I
>> then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the
>> handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I
>> was able to work them open and closed.
>>
>> /J
>>
>>
>> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan <dgcorm...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
>> drain hoses.
>>
>>
>>
>> photos on google drive:
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>>
>>
>>
>> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
>> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
>> them to budge.
>>
>>
>>
>> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
>> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
>> cockpit drains?
>>
>> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>>
>>
>>
>> What should I do?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> Breakaweigh
>>
>> C&C44
>>
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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