I'll second using Epiphanes Varnish. I built up mine with the following: a coat or two of Pettit Clear Sealer (you can hot coat it), then build with Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss, which can be applied without sanding between coats up to three days apart. After about 6 coats I let it dry for a week and give it a good sanding to smooth over the grain. Then I use regular Epiphanes Gloss for a few more coats. I give a quick scuff with a green scotchbrite pad between coats. I wipe down with a damp cloth, then one dampened with alcohol, then a good wipe with a tack rag. If you want a satin finish, the last coat can be Epiphanes rubbed effect, which is very easy to work with. I always finish with Gloss, though, as it wears better. I checked with some of my West Indian friends, who are varnish experts, to see if they go for anything different these days but got the same answer.
Andy Formerly C&C 40 Peregrine Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 > On Jun 26, 2018, at 18:08, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hello all, > > FYI, I am starting to learn more about the cabin teak on our 1994 C&C 37/40+. > I noticed when we bought the boat that the interior looked much more > "blonde" color than other teak interiors. In addition, there are a number of > areas where the wood shows light water stains. The finish itself allows the > grain to be both felt and seen. After trying varnish in a few inconspicous > places, I noticed it darkened the color to a traditional teak look. > Beautiful, but getting everything that color was going to involve a major > redo of the entire interior. I then tried traditional danish oil. This > time, I could see and feel the grain as was the case with the rest of the > boat, but again it darkened the wood (but not as much as the varnish). > > Then, I tried lacquer. It did not darken the wood, and I also (finally!) > figured out that I could remove the old Lacquer finish with a 50/50 mix of > lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol. > > So, for those of you who have the lighter finished interior, try lacquer. It > sits on top of the teak and does not penetrate deeply, thus not darkening the > wood. And, you can test if it is lacquer that needs to be removed by trying > the thinner/alcohol approach. > > Food for thought, > > Bruce Whitmore > > (847) 404-5092 (mobile) > bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net > > > From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: cenel...@aol.com > Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2018 4:40 PM > Subject: Stus-List Cleaning cabin teak prior to varnish application > > Have decided to bite the bullet and brighten up my cabins by cleaning up the > teak which has only ever been oiled—and not really that often! > I am leaning toward using the spray on stuff from Clorox similar to > ‘scrubbing bubbles’ to clean and remove what little oil/dirt remains before > applying a polyurethane based ‘varnish’. > This is a big job on my 1995 36’ XL/kcb—there are 3 cabins and several > bulkheads and doors to do so I cannot obsess over the cleaning or the varnish > application. > The list has mentioned solutions with TSP, etc. but unless there are likely > to be problems with my Clorox stuff, I prefer this premixed. > Also what polyurethane varnish is considered the best looking with the fewest > number of coats. > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom > > > > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >
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