As far as the water heater goes, a by-pass is a great addition (about $30, if you buy one, make sure you buy the one with two valves!).
Pouring AF into the water heater is not a good idea – the taste and smell would stay almost forever, and you need a lot to saturate the heater tank with AF (it is not a simple case of displacing water). Instead, drain the water heater. I push most of the water from the WH using compressed air, the rest has to drain. Btw. be prepared that the last few cups of water would be dirty with sediment (you will have some sediment in the WH, almost regardless how clean it is), so you may not want to drain directly into the bilge. If there is a little bit of water in the WH tank, it should not be a problem – it would have enough room to expand as it freezes. If you want to be extra careful about all your fresh water system, you can push (or suck) the water from all lines, then run AF through the lines, and then push the AF out of the lines. this way, even if there are any low spots, you will have remnants of the AF in the lines, not water, but most of the lines would be free of AF, so there would be very little aftertaste. The same applies, more or less, to the fresh water side of the engine cooling. Run AF through the system until what comes out is no longer diluted, but push the AF out of the system after that. This helps with any seals, plastic components (e.g. strainer) etc. For pumping the AF through the system, buy an extra pump port (e.g.: Shurflo 244-2926), add a half meter hose, unscrew the original pump port, attach this one, put the hose into the AF jug, and run the pump. Very simple process and it winterises the pump in the process. Marek 1994 C270 Legato Ottawa, ON From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List Sent: Monday, November 19, 2018 10:08 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Steve Thomas Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing water system Shop vac has worked good for me. I found the rv alcohol antifreeze left a residual taste that was hard to clear, and I suspected that it was hard on rubber parts in the pump. Same idea as compressed air I guess, but suck instead of blow. Still have to pay attention to potential blockage by pumps and valves of course. Due dilligence. Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII Port Stanley,ON ---- Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: I agree for the tank. Just letting it drain should be fine. It’s the running antifreeze through the rest of the system that’s throwing me. Today I did blast the tank with a compressor and more water came out so I like doing that. Just letting it drain wasn’t 100 percent, but likely good enough. I traced the hosing some. Too many disappear below the hot water tank to have a full picture. A saw a puddle of antifreeze there but could get to it. It makes sense to connect the input and outputs of the tank together but it didn’t work. I think the water pressure pump feeds a T that then runs to the cold on the galley sink. I think there is another T there which probably feeds the hand shower in the head. The hot water does the same thing. So connecting tank out to the T at the input of the tank should pump water, antifreeze, to both endpoints. But it’s not happening. For this season, given my failure, I am hoping just draining and pulling antifreeze through the hand and foot pumped lines will be enough. So far can’t figure it out. Matthew The Office C&C 35 Mk III Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=02%7C01%7C%7C17b08c737fdb4301c02f08d64e30e152%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636782369189342709&sdata=EH%2BsJsCjTf3YTgA5ZWvMDolkVluJN214icLjvRHvJcY%3D&reserved=0
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