Yeah we may covet the non maintenance of stainless down here in the south but 
we are heat avoidant. 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Tuesday, February 19, 2019, 10:19 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

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Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Hull windows (Jim Watts)
  2. Re:  Epoxy or not. (Matthew L. Wolford)
  3. Re:  Epoxy or not. (Frederick G Street)
  4. Re:  Epoxy or not. (Dreuge)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 20:39:10 -0800
From: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com>
To: 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull windows
Message-ID:
    <ca+jz0ffgqtczjwv6kcm9gpdccqj71kpa6yn0sg5nfgw-s7m...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Some boats can look good with hull windows, and properly engineered they
should not be a strength factor in the hull.
http://www.iconsailing.com/assets/homepage/k1087.jpg
Some boats look hideous with hull windows, and look like the boat will fold
on the dotted line.
https://www.oysteryachts.com/images/yachts/46/oyster_745_75ft_yacht_at_sea_on_body_of_water.jpg
It depends...

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Sun, 17 Feb 2019 at 05:41, Rob Ball via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> I would love to have Windows in the hull.
> But, as you mention they are always Ugly.
> For sure fitting them into an existing hull that was not built for it,
> would be very unwise.  There needs to be careful structure changes if a
> window is fitted . . . . .
> I dreamed of a full length stripe that was a window set into the hull,
> with occasional openings inside.  You could get the windows and a good
> looking boat. Alas, pretty hard to accomplish. The differing expansion and
> contraction of different materials with temperature changes, etc.
> Some of the Baltic's these days have opening 'doors' in the hull.  You can
> imagine the engineering that goes into something like that to make the boat
> safe . . . . .
> Maybe in my next life . . . . .
>
> Rob Ball.  C&C 34
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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>
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2019 00:04:22 -0500
From: "Matthew L. Wolford" <wolf...@erie.net>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID: <DC9660559A704848AFB1FC3AA1E3188C@InternetPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Bev:

    Given that you started off with ?Just doing the teak handrails,? I assume 
that your interest is limited to ?how? and not ?whether.?  If you are 
considering going to stainless, I have done so on two boats and have been very 
pleased.  However: a) stainless (although stronger and maintenance free) can be 
a little slippery when wet; and b) despite Herculean template efforts, we were 
never able to get the bolts on the replacement rails lined up perfectly with 
the old bolts holes, so some filling and drilling was required.  On my 34, the 
handrail came with bolts welded in place, so we could see where the holes 
needed to go (they still needed to be oversized for some installation ?play?).  
On my current boat, the handrail design had changed, and the ?feet? have nuts 
welded in place (so you use regular bolts from the inside).  To deal with this, 
I screwed some small pieces of threaded rod into the feet so I could determine 
where the bolt holes should go.  In addition, the heat of welding the nuts in 
place can distort threads, and Whitewater Marine did not re-tap the threads on 
the feet as they should have.  As a result, we broke off two bolts on my 
current boat before we figured out what was going on.  In short, going to 
stainless will likely be more of a project, but they?re very strong, 
maintenance free, and you?ll only do it once.

    If you are only concerned about whether or not to epoxy, my understanding 
is that if water gets into epoxy-entombed wood, the wood can rot from the 
inside without fair warning.  Probably better to go with a UV-protectant 
varnish which, unlike with stainless, you will be doing again someday.

    Good luck.

    Matt

From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2019 10:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Conklin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

Me too 2nd  the vote for the stainless! 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ux528c82YTnHOi5ufTJ63xuGtFAm7lYQ

John Conklin

On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 6:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


  Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy 
and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
  _______________________________________________

  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2019 07:48:56 -0600
From: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
To: David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID: <388d14e4-386c-4e57-9b2d-a2f6ad6aa...@postaudio.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

+1 on AwlWood ? I did my handrails and dorade boxes a couple of years ago, and 
they still look great!

? Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI  :^(

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 5:36 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> You might want to investigate AwlWood MA 
> <https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97753> 
> from AwlGrip. I?m using it and like it.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin?s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> 
>> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy 
>> and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2019 10:18:08 -0500
From: Dreuge <dre...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID: <65e4cee0-dac8-43b6-b56d-ef21cb064...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I?m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.  

I?m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.  
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
> From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com <mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> Message-ID:
>     <ca+zacrbqcw3b5szxr2q4ehfo45jy2gcald0yyjfb9dzhhe2...@mail.gmail.com 
> <mailto:ca+zacrbqcw3b5szxr2q4ehfo45jy2gcald0yyjfb9dzhhe2...@mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
> made to fit the original holes.
> 
> Whitewatermarine.com <http://whitewatermarine.com/>
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA 
> <https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA>
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 

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End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 157, Issue 38
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