I too think the Halon auto is the best choice but
last time I tried, could not be purchased new in
Canada due to damaging effects to ozone layer (or
some other SJW concern). Older ones could still be refilled a few years ago.
The best non-residue solution is probably CO2 and
the little port, as discussed.
I bought one of these little puppies:
http://www.elidefire.eu.com/
Figuring "what the hell" as a back-up it cannot
hurt too much. Position it high & aft in the
engine compartment. Looks like a slight residual powder may be left behind.
Don't discount the possibility of a diesel fire
when there is pressurized fuel line(s) near high temperature exhaust surface.
Gargle "steam turbine oil fires" to see what a
hot metal temperature and lube oil will do.
Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1
At 01:39 PM 6/2/2019, you wrote:
I think Halon is nearly perfect for
bilge/mechanical area.on the inert gas sinks
like propane, and smothers any fire by denying
it oxygen. It also doesnât hurt the intake
system on your most likely, running engine. I
learned a lot from a previous rear engine auto
engine compartment fire. I proudly shot a
powder type extinguisher on the running engine
and got to rebuild the engine on my original 1960 Porsche 356.
If the Halon was released by the heat sensing
valve, it will immediately stop your engine and
shouldnât effect the engine when
restarted. The inert gas is pulled to the spaces that are on fire.
 Obviously the Halon will not bode well for any
oxygen breathing organisms so some airing out would be required.
I am not certain if they are readily available
any more. I have had them on 3 different boats.
I was told that unlike powdered systems, if they
weigh the same as new, they are as good as new.
I think mine is a âFireboyâ. I think I will
check to see if they are still available!
Installation in the engine compartment is very simple.
Rick
Paikea 37+
Bremerton, WA
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