Old cable generally makes a decent pull string :)  ...assuming they're not
fastened in some inaccessible location.

I'm surprised at the current ratings for that 15ga wire, given how long the
run could be, although I suspect most N2K busses carry much less than the
maximum; otherwise the voltage drop would be significant.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Apr 27, 2020 at 1:47 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> To Josh’s comment, I didn’t think of the backbone being more robust, that
> makes perfect sense. And it turns out it is, according to Maretrons  data.
>
> I got this off Maretron site for cable,
>
>
>
> 2x15 (1.45mm) AWG
>
> 3.44 Ohms/1000 ft max
>
> 16 Amps – NB1
>
> 14 Amps – NG1
>
> Red/Black
>
> 2x18 (1.02mm) AWG
>
> 120 Ohms ± 10%
>
> 12 pF/1000 ft Max
>
> White/Blue
>
>
>
> So it looks like the power cable is 15 Gauge and the data is lighter at 18
> Gauge. So I guess I better make sure I have at least 15 Gauge wire or else
> try and get another wire through some difficult spaces.
>
>
>
> And Jim, I may have miss-spoke, when I said the wire was twisted, I should
> have said they (Power, red and black) were twisted strands inside the
> insulation, they are actually not twisted around each other.
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks all for all the input.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Erie PA
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of James
> Nichols via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 12:42 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: jfn...@yahoo.com
> Subject: Stus-List NMEA 0183 vs. 2000 Wiring Compatibility
>
>
>
> Bill,
>
>
>
> As others have said, the 0183 wire is likely to support the signal cables
>
> but not to not support the power requirements of downstream devices,
> however
>
> there are work arounds.
>
>
>
> Often when you are replacing 0183 devices with newer N2K devices, the older
>
> devices already had power run to them.  Using a short N2K pigtail cable,
> you
>
> can splice the signal cable to your existing 0183 network cabling and the
>
> power cables to your existing power.   Or use a power injector close to the
>
> new device.
>
>
>
> The idea of NMEA 2000 (N2K) was that a single cable would run through the
>
> boat and there would be short connections (drops) to the main cable to
>
> connect the various devices.  Think of it as a set of icicle Christmas
>
> lights.  The main cable carries the power and the short drops connect that
>
> power to the lights themselves.
>
>
>
> NMEA 0183 was typically wired in one of two methods, home runs or daisy
>
> chains. Depends on the installer.
>
>
>
> Home runs are where all the devices were wired back to one central location
>
> and would require that you to use something like Maretron's multiport box
> to
>
> interconnect your devices.  This makes for some long wire runs to various
>
> devices and could possibly cause intercommunication issues between devices
>
> that are separated by the most amount of wire.  Shouldn't, but could.
>
>
>
> If your boat was wired in a daisy chain, you would just need to replace the
>
> connectors where the cabling went into and out of the old device and add a
>
> T-connector to provide your drop to your device.  This wiring method would
>
> more closely represent the main backbone system used by N2K, except your
>
> backbone runs everywhere in the boat instead of just down the middle.
>
>
>
> While trying to reuse the existing wiring may save you some expense in the
>
> wire costs, typically there is an easy wiring route for a new main run
>
> through the bilges or behind the settees. Then you just have to run the
>
> short drops through somewhat more difficult areas.  About the most
> difficult
>
> one I can think of would be getting up the walls and through the ceiling to
>
> the place that the wires enter the mast.  All the remaining runs should be
>
> fairly easy.
>
>
>
> My personal opinion is that while doing things to make the existing wire
>
> work can be done, it isn't worth the headache and expense that you would
>
> encounter down the road when a connection that wasn't done perfectly causes
>
> problems for the whole system.  Also, manufactures don't tend to warranty
>
> things that are not done to spec.  So if you are purchasing new equipment,
>
> best to go with the correct wiring also.
>
>
>
> James
>
> SV Kristy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Message: 2
>
> Date: Sun, 26 Apr 2020 17:56:32 -0400
>
> From: "Bill Coleman" <colt...@gmail.com>
>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> Subject: Stus-List NMEA 0183 vs. 2000 Wiring Compatibility
>
> Message-ID: <1c3401d61c15$8cad8000$a6088000$@com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain;     charset="UTF-8"
>
>
>
> I am replacing some 0183 wiring for NMEA 2000, and I bought some 2000 end
>
> connectors (Maretron FA-NF-ST Mini Field Attachable Connector (Female)
>
> FA-NM-ST) that you can screw the terminals into. Some of this 0183 wiring
>
> was probably installed before the boat was completed, and It looks very
>
> difficult to re-wire. Does anyone know if I can just use the 0183 wiring to
>
> now become 2000  compatible?  In other words, is there anything lacking in
>
> the older wiring, like shielding, twisting, etc, that would make this not
>
> work?
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Erie PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
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>
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