Hi Dave,

I' m pretty sure this is the discussion you are looking for on the VhB tape and 
Silicone method. See the Sailmagazine link below.

I saved many technical discussions in a folder over the years.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine
1987 33-2
New-Richmond,Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Début du message transféré :

Expéditeur: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 10 février 2015 à 14:22:40 UTC−5
Destinataire: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Objet: Rép :⁨ Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41⁩
Répondre à: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
<drbod...@accesswave.ca<mailto:drbod...@accesswave.ca>>, 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>


I've been following this topic any time I see it come up - I have windows in 
need of replacement.
I like the sailing anarchy suggestion - with coincides (fairly closely )with 
Don Casey's recommendation
http://www.sailmagazine.com/boatworks/replacing-fixed-portlights
He recommends double sided tape and Dow Corning 795 sealant.
The one difference he suggests using just the double sided tape initially  - 
then squeeze the sealant into the gap after the window is in place.
Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2015-02-07 8:50 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
Do NOT use 5200.

Here is one way to do it: 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/portlight_replace/page01.htm

Here is another way to do it: 
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=133986&hl=

Here's another way:

Clean all traces of silicone from the window and frame. This will take roughly 
forever. I used a product I got from an auto parts store called "Acryl-Safe" 
which did a good job. You could also try any number of citrus-based silicone 
removers. Clean off all the remover residue with Interlux Special Thinner 216.
You could try rebedding without screws. I opted to use screws on 6" centers, 4" 
would have been better. Drill the holes slightly oversize and use a washer 
under the screw head.
The sealant is the next step. I used Life Seal (NOT Life Caulk!) because it has 
good adhesive qualities and does not interact with the acrylic/Lexan (whatever 
you have). If I was starting from scratch, I would use Sikaflex 295 UV with the 
special primer and skip the screws.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 7 February 2015 at 16:18, Rex & Jennifer Delay via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
We have a relatively new to us 1985 41.  The windows and hatches had been 
replaced by the previous owner.  Hatches were done right, the side windows were 
bedded in silicone, not right.  I had to re-bed one of them already but did not 
get all traces of the silicone off so it did not take.  Need to do it again as 
soon as possible which will involve removing the window, scraping clean and 
then wiping the cabin side with acetone and re-bedding with 5200.  The question 
is – there are no mechanical fastenings?  Should I add screws every 4” or so or 
create some sort of method to press the windows in place while the 5200 sets?  
Anyone come up with the perfect jig to do this or is it better to add screws?  
Large custom bar clamps?

Rex & Jennifer Delay
www. Ghostlake.com<http://www.ghostlake.com/>
www.ghostlakesailing.com<http://www.ghostlakesailing.com>


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