>From my experience, you need to make sure that the legs of the supports don't 
>move (which would collapse the cover) and that they don't twist (as Len 
>mentioned). I also use a piece of rope to make the rectangles between supports 
>smaller (less chance of snow pooling, melting and freezing again). Lately, 
>instead of rope I use reinforced tape (~ 1/2"). It does not need to be overly 
>strong; just enough to make sure that the snow slides off.

I suggest checking the cover after every major snow fall. If the cover has any 
dips, the snow will not shed, and it will collect there. Remove it, before it 
melts. If it refreezes, you may have to face 100 kg pieces of ice that you 
won't be able to move.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

-----Original Message-----
From: Len Mitchell 
Sent: 26 October, 2020 23:05
To: CNC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List Boat cover question 

Dean, I had a cover on our C&C 36 and have a cover on our 37+ made by Topshop 
in the Kingston/Quinte area. The ribs are aluminum conduit. I use zip ties to 
keep them in place with the snow load on the life lines and toe rail. The ribs 
can twist with the weight of heavy snow. They are built to allow water drainage 
but may need another set of ribs if you get pooling. On the 36 I had to use a 
piece of rope to bridge a gap in the conduit. You will need to monitor and see 
how it is. Best if the cover is tightly fastened from below. The 37+ had a new 
canvas last year and sheds water and snow very well. My advice is to check it 
often until you have a level of comfort and deal with any pooling. The new 
cover is a mast up version and fits well. I installed a garboard plug on the 
37+ and have less to worry about. Good luck with yours. 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On. 

Sent from my iPad
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list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

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