Great idea on the plugs--I have found them but thought I'd probably have to
drill them out entirely. That will certainly be my first try before I destroy
anything further.
Unfortunately, the aft 6-18 inches of both the ceiling panel under the cubby
and the panel 'inside' the cubby extending into a closed cabinet were totally
destroyed by the water leak over the years I neglected it!
Thus Charles' suggestion will not work in my case since there are no 'remains'
of the panel to save.
Regarding the bung removal, hopefully this will allow me to remove the
partially destroyed panel. I haven't found a 'seam' yet so the panel may extend
forward and be a single long panel--Murphy lurks!
Thanks for the suggestions,
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom
-----Original Message-----
From: Graham Collins via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Feb 1, 2021 9:21 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
Hey Charlie, if it is like the panels on my boat you should be able to get the
plugs out reasonably easily, I drilled a small hole in the center and screwed a
wood screw in, it popped the plugs out and I could remove the screws and thus
the panel. I'd go with that before resorting to a power tool... You could
replicate it with thin battens but you'd want some sort of tongue on them so
there weren't visible gaps where the gelcoat above shows through. And don't
press the battens tight together in case they expand with humidity...
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11 On 2021-02-01 9:31 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem.
I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C&C sourced this
material to a local shop who has since gone out of business.
My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the
listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 'think' the
current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it.
First, of course, I have to remove some of the good remaining ceiling to
determine how thick it is and, more importantly, what it is. It might be teak,
or teak faced plywood or just plywood stained to mimic teak. As with most boat
projects, they start with at least 1, usually 2 or more steps backward before
any forward progress is made--at least that is how it usually works for me!
Now it would only warm up in coastal NC (highs lately barely get out of the
high 40s), I can begin the backward steps by probably investing in an
oscillating tool so I can remove some of the ceiling without destroying it (1st
step backward!). I may try a Dremel tool first--I have one of those somewhere.
Then I can either make a similar piece myself (of course I would likely need
a router then!) or take the wood to a local shop and have it routed (2nd step
backward).
Thanks again for the listers who helped with the terminology. I will let the
list know what the solution turns out to be.
Charlie Nelson Water Phantom
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
