David:

 

                It sounds like your mounting/access issues are boat-specific, 
so I can’t offer anything there.  However, I agree with your assessment that 
the manual electric pump should be the one deepest in the bilge, and the 
automatic backstop should be higher up.  The idea with the automatic is to save 
the boat if you’re not there (or asleep), not keep the bilge dry.  Based on a 
recommendation from someone on this list, last year I purchased an Ultra pump 
switch for the automatic.  http://tefgel.com/contain.php?param=pumpswitch_infor 
 I haven’t installed it yet, and need to decide what kind of pump to pair it 
with.  The manually operated electric pump that came with the boat is a Jabsco 
diaphragm pump, which works well for this purpose. 

 

                Matt

                C&C 42 Custom

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 11:42 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Bilge pumps

 

Practical Sailor had an article recently about bilge pumps and I have three 
questions.

1.   They recommended two electric pumps: a lower capacity automatic as deep in 
bilge as possible and a second higher capacity wired to a switch higher up.  I 
am unconvinced by the logic.  I have had an automatic pump get stuck on, so it 
ran until the battery ran out of juice.  I worry that will happen more 
frequently with a deep automatic in the part of the bilge that will most 
frequently have water and crud.  I would argue for the opposite setup so I can 
pump out incidental rain water etc. at my discretion but the automatic will 
kick in when there is high water.

2.  On my boat, I have a small floor panel I can remove to access the bilge and 
my current pump (Whale super-sub which is the only pump I found that fits) is 
deep in the narrow bilge there.  If I were to try to put a second pump in, I 
think it would have to be somewhere else which means under the flooring and 
inaccessible which seems like a bad idea.  That flooring is a PITA to remove, 
since it is screwed down and to remove the flooring adjacent to the small 
panel, where a pump would make sense, I have to unbolt and support the table 
because the mast runs through it and the table bolts to the flooring.  That 
takes about 30 min minimum so I don’t think that is a good place for a pump one 
wants to access with some ease.  I could put it further back under the rear 
flooring which is more easily removed, but it would have to be a pump that sits 
low to fit.  Have others modified the floor attachment to make access to the 
space underneath easier?  

3.  If one has two pumps, it is OK to tie the outlets together through a Y 
valve with check valves?

 

David Knecht

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

 

Dr. David Knecht

Professor, Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 

University of Connecticut             

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

U-3125

Storrs, CT 06269-3125

 

 

 

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