Jene,
You especially want to look closely around any thru-hulls, especially any that don't look like they were original. Original penetrations would typically drop down on the inside, eliminating any balsa and being solid fiberglass all around the hole. Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie, PA From: Jene van der Heide via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: Monday, March 08, 2021 1:02 PM To: Stus-List Cc: Jene van der Heide Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C ceiling in forepeak Dear all, I'm new to this C&C list. I'm currently interested in buying a C&C 44 (build 1989, with 2.1 draft). Next weekend I'll visit the boat for the first time. I'm a bit worried aboat the balsa core and quality of the construction after 30+ years sailing. The boats' history is known and well maintained. It's the second owner who is selling. I'm an experienced sailor, but are not familiair with C&C construction methods in '89 and points to pay extra attention to when visiting this beautifull design. Hope you have some information about the construction and tips for me. Thanks in advance, Jene Van der Heide The Netherlands Outlook voor Android downloaden <https://aka.ms/ghei36> _____ From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Monday, March 8, 2021 6:02:51 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: cenel...@aol.com <cenel...@aol.com> Subject: Stus-List C&C ceiling in forepeak At the risk of having the terminology incorrect, I thought I'd share with the list my discovery of how the teak interior hull liner was constructed on my 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb. I decided that the only way to find out was to carefully destroy a portion of the remaining 'ceiling' that was not rotted away by years of water leaking on it. It turns out that this material is teak-veneer on ~1/4" plywood (or its metric cousin) with V-grooves cut into it every 1 7/8". According to Rob McLaughlin at South Shore Yachts, this materiel was originally likely out-sourced to local wood shop(s), none of which are still in business to his knowledge. Since I neither have nor know how to use a router, I am having some pieces made locally to match that I will then install on the boat. Fortunately, with the grooves, the plywood should be able to 'fit' to the gentle curve of the hull both vertically and horizontally. My biggest challenge will be making a some kind of template from the current empty space on the hull that I can use to cut the new routed teak faced plywood to fit. This challenge will be reduced somewhat by the strips of ~1/2 x 1/4" wood I will need to hold it in place--thereby hiding any cutting errors! In my hands, wood carpentry can always be made to look good with proper attention to 'trim' work! Thanks to all who chimed in with suggestions on both what this 'lining' is properly referred to nautically as well as those who suggested solutions, especially Rod Stright who knows his wooden boats and terminology! Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb,
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
