Picture helps jog the memory. That is exactly what the panel I have as well. I remember the needle bouncing a bit when I push the glow plug button, but I don’t think it went to 30. Will have to check. I am glad you reminded me of that article. One thing I think I can do is run the orange power wire directly to the glow plug switch and see what happens. The meters won’t work, but I presume the engine should crank. Dave
S/V Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT > On Oct 26, 2022, at 1:56 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > My ammeter had numbers just like the picture of the control panel shown in > that article. The article also shows a wiring diagram. > > On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:57 PM David Knecht via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > It is wired just like the Universal manual diagram except that the jumper for > the start button was moved to the glow plug plus side so the two switches are > independent and you can start without pushing the glow plug button. I don’t > remember what the ammeter shows when starting but I don’t think my gauge has > numbers. I have not installed the glow plug solenoid he discusses so that is > stock. Dave > > David Knecht > Rear Commodore > Thames Yacht Club > New London, CT > > > >> On Oct 26, 2022, at 12:44 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: >> >> How is the ammeter at the control panel wired. Does the charge current from >> the alternator go all the way from the alternator up to the ammeter on the >> instrument panel and then back to the batteries? I always felt that glow >> plug button was kind of special and I noticed that my ammeter showed 30 or >> more when I depressed it and for as long as it was depressed. >> >> On Wed, Oct 26, 2022 at 1:35 PM David Knecht via CnC-List >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: >> Here are a few answers to the comments: >> >> All of this started with replacement of old switches for new ones. Same >> wires but each terminal cleaned before attachment. I find it hard to >> believe that cleaned terminals and new switches caused a ground fault >> problem at some remote site that was not there before. Things were >> generally working before I did anything. Now nothing works. >> >> To Dwights suggestion: After reading that Marine How to article years ago, I >> replaced all the trailer connectors with heat shrink direct butt splice >> connectors for each wire. I also installed a Blue Seas ACR/battery switch, >> so the batteries are supposed to be isolated. >> >> I really can’t understand how this problem is affecting both batteries when >> the two circuits are isolated by the ACR. When I try to start the engine, >> everything goes crazy- including both battery volt meter readings. The >> meter goes completely blank as if both batteries are dead and then voltage >> slowly recovers over time. >> >> I am also mystified by how I can be measuring over 12V on the plus side of >> the key switch and 10V on the other side when it is on. That is measured >> relative to a ground terminal on the tachometer. There is nothing there >> except the switch itself, right? I am guessing that means something in >> terms of the problem, but I don’t know what. >> Thanks- Dave >> >> S/V Aries >> 1990 C&C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> <pastedGraphic.tiff> > >> >>> On Oct 26, 2022, at 11:48 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List >>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: >>> >>> If you have a Universal M4-30 engine with associated engine control panel >>> with ammeter this article contains some very important information for you >>> to know. >>> Universal Diesel Engine - Wiring Harness Upgrade - Marine How To >>> <https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/> >>> Dwight Veinot >>> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna >>> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS >>> d.ve...@bellaliant.net <mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 11:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List >>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: >>> More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine panel >>> ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V. When I checked at >>> the input side of the key switch it was 12 V. When I turned the key switch >>> on, I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere >>> downstream. I am presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not >>> understand what that means and hoping someone else does. The other weird >>> thing is that as I have worked on this, there are times when the battery >>> meter in the cabin bounces all over the place from 9V to 12V and back and >>> then finally settles at 12.9V. At the same time, the batteries are >>> measuring 12.5V. Something very strange is happening. Dave >>> >>> S/V Aries >>> 1990 C&C 34+ >>> New London, CT >>> >>> <pastedGraphic.tiff> >> >>> >>>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List >>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: >>>> >>>> HELP! I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right >>>> direction. Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought >>>> i would get a head start on a project. My start button has been flakey >>>> this summer with now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to >>>> replace key switch, glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow >>>> but could not get start out so gave up. Engine started fine after >>>> rewiring. Come back next week and no response to start button. Battery >>>> fine. Lots of messing around but no luck. Come back today and wire in new >>>> start button in case old bad. Recheck wiring and realize key switch is >>>> wired backwards (does it matter? I guess you are supplying power to >>>> downstream stuff when off?). Did not check and misremembered which wire >>>> supplied power. Swapped wires on key switch and checked meter and 12v on >>>> proper side (bat).All looks good. Turn on key switch and fuel pump starts >>>> as normal. Push start button and nothing. Now i measure 4v at engine panel >>>> instead of 12. Battery meters dead display and measuring 4v at its inputs. >>>> But 12v at battery and main power switch. Other devices fine. Over an hour >>>> now and panel and battery meter up to 6v so seems to be slowly recovering. >>>> What is going on? Did i screw something up when key switch was backwards? >>>> Dave >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >> >> -- >> Sent from Gmail Mobile > > -- > Sent from Gmail Mobile
