| Thanks lots of good feedback if you can share that would be helpful.
I’m in salt water and have noticed rust at bottom of binnicle leading me to believe this will be required to rebuild the idler plate
-Rob Sent from my iPhone On Aug 2, 2023, at 1:12 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I replaced the idler on my 34R using the Edson aluminum product and learned the hard way what was needed. I wrote up my journey for my 34/36 group and can share it with anyone interested.
If your idler pulley sheaves are in good condition, I would recommend you send the old idler plate to Garhauer and have them fabricate a new plate in stainless steel with new stainless towers and reuse your sheaves. It will probably cost half what Edson charges and not require any alterations to the deck or binnicle.
Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 34R, Annapolis
On 08/02/2023 11:21 AM EDT Chris Riedinger via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Jenna found our steering cable only attached by one bunch of the (?11)-strand cable a few years ago while I was seining in AK.
She and friends reswaged a new piece of cable to our old chain and I have kept an eye on it since, periodically lubing.
I find the grease port in the rudder post is not enough when driving hard downwind for many miles, we often get a squeak that starts near/just under the quadrant
Shift and throttle cables are a must-do, in my opinion, if they haven't been done on a boat of our vintage.
Thanks Josh glad I’m waiting till off season, recall any part number from Edson..sounds like some fabrication in order as well.
-Rob
Sent from my iPhone
You're in for a treat! This might help.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/115qLR3c13N2THCRpsOF-7UGGJBweFXfd/view?usp=drivesdk
Edson made the plate to which the turning sheeves are attached out of carbon steel. They never expected the OEMs to install them in a wet or exposed location. The sheeves are attached with 3/4 inch diameter sleeves that have been hydraulically pressed to full over top and bottom rim. This makes a type of "pass through rivet". The hole in the center of the "rivet" is where the cable passes. The rivet clamps the bronze sheeve body to the plate. The body uses the rivet as a pivot and has bolts to hold it in position as needed to fairlead the cable back to the quadrant. The sheeve are bronze as well and they pivot on a stainless pin. Edson reengineered this plate and used both aluminum and bronze. Sounds like and upgrade right? Well it would be if it would fit our boats but it won't. Besides the thickness of the new plate being the main problem the sheeve can not articulate close enough together to allow the cables to lead properly. So it would be nice if edson just stuck with a carbon steel version as well but they didn't. When I replaced mine I learned all of the aforementioned details over multiple weeks and phone calls and shipping returns. Ultimately the associate I was working with was able to paw around in the warehouse and found what he thought might very well be the last carbon steel plate in existence. They re-rivetted my sheeves to the new plate. It was the only option. If you're in fresh water I've heard the damage is considerably less but if you're in salt water you may find yourself with a bigger than expected project.
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The cable replacement is actually pretty straight forward as long as you figure out a way to attach the new cable to the old and the the old to lead the new through the sheeves and pedestal. If anything comes undone you may have to unmount the pedestal. The cable can be bought from edson or manufactured by reusing the chain and reswaging new cable. Its more expensive to use but only $30 or $40 bucks more. Using theirs ensures that you get new chain. You'd also be able to leave the olds cable in place and use it to lead the new as described above. New from edson is my vote. They come in different lengths and our boats use one of if not the longest available. You can narrow it down to the available options by measuring from the pedestal hub to the deck and add the distance from the pedestal base to the quadrant. Then add half the circumstance too. As I recall the cable wraps halfway around but maybe its a full 360°. Double check when your measuring and adjust the math as needed.
If you are taking time to rebuilt the pedestal reach back out and let me know. There are some tricks. I had mine completely sand blasted and repainted. All the internals were completely rebuilt.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
Thinking about my my off season punch list.
Steering system is next up, after motor mounts and running gear last year.
Any idea on cable and idlers required?
Thanks
Rob
Sent from my iPhone
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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.Stu
|
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help
me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
