Keith, You are not overthinking this. You are correct that the coupler is a designed interference fit. When I repowered our 38-2 I had a new coupler to install, but getting it on the shaft was not possible with the tools I had. You'd need a sledge hammer on the engine side and someone holding an anvil against the prop. I opted to reuse the old coupler out of necessity. The old one had a keyway and two 7/16" set screws. Not ideal but we now have 400 hours of motoring on it and have had no issues. I actually tried to take it off last winter to check the packing material and it was so tight I would've needed to remove the engine and use a puller to get it off. If you're really worried about it, drill out your small set screws and tap larger ones. You can put a lot clamping force on a 7/16" set screw.
Cheers, Riley On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 9:22 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Gotta do the same project. > > I think you are over thinking this. The OD of the hose is irrelevant. > The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary > between models and years. Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the > strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right. > > I look forward to the replies. > > Chuck S > > > > On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Hey folks, I'm hoping the C&C community will help me out. > > Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard. > > Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the > cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the > length is 4", but what is the OD?? > > Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the > shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove > the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've > heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it > has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but > once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very > good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing > transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather > than the nice "hug" of an interference fit. > Q1: is this a real thing? > Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems? > > Thanks a bunch!! > > -Keith M > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and > help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
