Chuck:
Shrink wrap material used at our club goes to be recycled and not to a
landfill. Each Spring the club arranges for a large dumpster to be
located in the boat yard and if the boat owner is discarding the shrink
wrap, into the dumpster and taken away to be recycled. There should be
no need to put in a landfill.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2025-08-29 2:25 p.m., CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
Been following this thread and learning.
I wanted to add that here in the northeast, we suffer some storms in
the winter where snow accumulates on the tarp, and during the day, the
sun melts it and creates a heavy concentrated load on the material.
If the material stretches at all, like tarps from the box stores, the
snow forms a puddle of ice that further strecthes it and it either
rips the material or it breaks the frame somewhere. High winds can
also damage the deck if a frame is tied to stanchions. One of mine
tore a hole in the deck and I had to replace the fiberglass and fair
and paint. A friend braces his stanchions with wood 1 x 4s braced
against the cabin sides.
The shrink wrap material doesn't stretch as much as nylon tarps, but
it's so expensive and fills up the landfill. Canvas covers seem much
better, but take up storage space in the off season.
Not the best idea, but I protect my boat with a smaller tarp over the
cabintop that rests on cockpit cushions and fenders to add pitch.
That covers the cabintop and genoa tracks but leaves the side decks
clear, and gets pulled tight to the toerails using sashcord. It keeps
the snow and ice from getting into the nooks and crannies, but doesn't
protect the whole boat.
Whatever protection you choose, visit the boat regularly once or twice
a month through the winter, to charge the batteries and check the tarp
and lines. I pick a nice day and drive to the boat, plug in the
charger, adjust the tarp, check the boat for mold, etc, then meet up
with friends for lunch. After lunch, I go back to the boat and
disconnect the power line before driving home. I never leave power
connected when I'm away from the boat for extended periods. I don't
like to see other boats with chargers and heaters and dehumidifiers
powered all winter. It's too risky for me. I prefer boatyards that
require owners to disconnect power whenever you're away from the
boat. It's much safer.
Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis
On 08/29/2025 12:20 PM EDT Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
<[email protected]> wrote:
I used the Kover Klamp system during Calypso's 10 year restoration
project. (www.koverklampframes.com). The cover material was up all
year and would last 4 years before I needed to renew it. Kover
Klamp's tie down fittings worked great with C&C's "holey rail". The
system survived steady winds into the mid 40's and gusts to the mid
50's.
I built the frame similar to Don's. PVC and spinnaker pole. I also
second the suggestion to make frame with enough pitch to allow snow
to slide off. It's best to prevent water from pooling as the weight
can cause problems.
Martin DeYoung
ex Calypso, 1971 C&C 43
ex Windsong, 1980 C&C 36
now
1956 Matthews 42 classic power boat
Port Ludlow, WA
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* Don Kern via CnC-List <[email protected]>
*Sent:* Thursday, August 28, 2025 4:17 PM
*To:* John Christopher via CnC-List <[email protected]>
*Cc:* Don Kern <[email protected]>
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: Boat covers
Being an old Yankee, ashrink wrap cover is used instead of a fabric
cover, and it has remained in good condition for seven years. Made
for snowy environments, the cover sheds snow effectively. My boat is
a C&C 35-2. For height, a 3” PVC pipe is mounted from the mast step
to roughly 40” above the cabin top mast partners, with the spinnaker
pole lashed to the bow pulpit and then to the pseudomast. From
there a ¾” galvanized link fence rail tubing extends to approximately
24” above the aft pulpit. This setup allows for easy access over the
transom and adequate stand-up space in the cockpit. To prevent the
cover from sagging, ¾” fiberglass tape is run diagonally from port to
starboard stanchions over the peak. The entire process typically
requires about half a day for two people to set up and secure.
Don Kern
C&C 35-2, /Fireball/
Bristol. RI
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