Greetings from Sunny Seattle, Because small plots in community gardens are just one big garden for the diseases that reside there, crop rotation as a means of disease control is not likely to be successful unless everyone in the garden agrees not to crow a particular crop for the season.
Crop rotation as a nutrient strategy is fine, but not necessary in soil which is well fed with a steady diet of compost, leaves, grass clipping, spent hops and grain, remains of apple cider and grape pressings, etc. This is also the best strategy for disease control. Keep food for the inhabitants of the soil in constant supply. I no longer till the soil. To plant I grab one of the oyster shells laying in my plot and scrape off enough mulch to get the seeds into dirt. Regarding not growing tomatoes and other plants in the same place every year - not only have I quit tilling, I've quit planting lots of seeds. For the last several years, tomatoes, kale, and other plants have volunteered. The tomatoes seem to be hardier and sweeter every year. I have tomatoes well into October, and when others have been struck with blight, my plants are still green and thriving. I also do the unthinkable, which is to cut up the trimmings from the tomato plants and use it directly as mulch under the plants. Well fed soil solves a lot of problems. \/ Sincerely, David Smead http://www.amplepower.com On Fri, 15 Apr 2005, Diane Dodge wrote: > Noreen and all, > > Noreen wrote: > Should gardeners who have small field-style plots -- 10 x 10, 10 x 20, 20 x > 30, etc.-- rotate crops each year? Some in our community of gardeners say > "yes" and others "no". Is there a general guideline someone can point me to > regarding this issue? > Your help with this is appreciated. > > IMHO, some rotation is necessary, to prevent some of the previous year's > diseases and soil dwelling pests from infecting your crops this year. The > general rules: not to plant nightshades(tomatoes, potatoes, etc.) is the > same spot for several years, since they are quite susceptible to the same > diseases; ditto for brassica(cabbage, broccoli, radishes, etc.). > > Check out the following from the U. of Minnesota: > http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG1427.html > > And a simple garden map for the year makes really good sense! > > Happy Gardening, > > Diane Dodge, Minnesota Master Gardener > > P.S. ACGA Conference is being held in MINNESOTA this year! Y'all come! > > > ______________________________________________________ > The American Community Gardening Association listserve is only one of ACGA's > services to community gardeners. To learn more about the ACGA and to find out > how to join, please go to http://www.communitygarden.org > > > To post an e-mail to the list: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To subscribe, unsubscribe or change your subscription: > https://secure.mallorn.com/mailman/listinfo/community_garden ______________________________________________________ The American Community Gardening Association listserve is only one of ACGA's services to community gardeners. To learn more about the ACGA and to find out how to join, please go to http://www.communitygarden.org To post an e-mail to the list: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To subscribe, unsubscribe or change your subscription: https://secure.mallorn.com/mailman/listinfo/community_garden
