jollyd wrote: > > the old "rope trick", is great, and it does work in an emergency...there is one > more trick I use and that isto "take the valve"...take off the rocker box. and > hit the offender several times with a big hard rubber hammer..first using > penetrating oil all around the offending valve....MOST of the time it will come > loose.....as a point of intrest...Has anyone "tore down" a engine that had > mistery oil used a lot in it?....pray tell, what did yo find?....don't get me > wrong, Mystery oil is good, but I heard it is nothing more than kerosine, with a > little "pew" mixed in...am I wrong?. jolly in aurora.. > > David Abrams wrote: > > > The Rope Trick? > > > > OK, I start up at ORE after a fly-in and I have a 3 cylinder 'Coupe. I am > > not going home. Here is what you do: > > > > Stop the engine as soon as you notice the problem. No point in bending any > > pushrods. > > > > Pull the upper spark plug out of the cylinder with the stuck (it is always > > the ) exhaust valve. Move the prop until the piston is at bottom dead > > center and thread the rope (use 1/4 inch or 3/8 in cotton) into the cylinder > > through the spark plug hole. Slowly move the prop to compress the rope with > > the piston. This will push the valve closed. Do not push past the point > > necessary to close the valve. Lower the piston and remove the rope and put > > everything back together again. > > > > Usually this will unstick the valve enough to get you home at which point my > > mechanic drops the valve into the cylinder (after tying a piece of dental > > floss to the end) and reams the valve guide before pulling the valve back > > into place. > > > > The problem is that the valve sticks open because at shutdown the valve is > > in the open position and there is insufficient clearance between the valve > > and the guide due to lead deposits. As the engine cools down the valve > > sticks in place. > > > > When you start the engine, the valve is not returned to the closed position > > by spring pressure. By closing the valve with the rope, you break the > > deposits a bit but mostly when the valve is opened by the rocker it is > > moving and the spring pressure can close it again. This trick has allowed > > me to get home from far away twice when I had a stuck valve. In both cases > > I had the guide reamed by my mechanic before I flew again. > > > > David Abrams > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > http://ercoupe.com > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Sent: Thursday, December 23, 1999 12:13 AM > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Subject: Re: AvBlend - Technical Question/Posting > > > > > > > > > Maybe I had better start using something in my oil since I > > > don't know the > > > "ROPE TRICK". Or maybe I should learn the "ROPE TRICK". > > > Anyone care to > > > enlighten me? Wayne N3544H Shelton, WA > > > > > > > > > _____________________________________________________________ > > > Get your favorite topic delivered daily. > > > http://www.topica.com/t/11 > > > > > > > _____________________________________________________________ > > Get your favorite topic delivered daily. > > http://www.topica.com/t/11 > > _____________________________________________________________ > Get your favorite topic delivered daily. > http://www.topica.com/t/11
Hi Jolly,
I haven't heard that, but if it is true it's still okay (just more
expensive) as kerosine is good stuff too. :-) I've used it for things
on my bicycle when I was a kid, before I'd ever heard of MMO, and it
worked fine. (So will diesel fuel work as a penetrating and/or
lubricant. Actually, they are about the same thing, as is JP4. They're
all from the kerosine family I believe.)
Incidently, here's a little tip I learned over in Asia many years
ago;
we had some 'steel' parts that were rusted together and nothing we tried
could get them apart (a gear on a shaft). One of the guys present was a
medic and he suggested trying 'full strength' iodine (You know, the
stuff yoiu can't get). Well, they have it in hospitals so he got us a
small amount of it and we tried it. WOW! I have never seen rust dance
around like that! And guess what, the gear came off faily easily. The
iodine worked it's way in between the gear and the shaft like a virus
and just 'ate' the rust and weakened it to the point that we were able
to get them apart. I don't know where a person could obtain iodine on
the civilian market that hasn't been reduced to the weak stuff we get in
drug stores, but it's something to remember. (As if our 'gray-matter'
wasn't already saturated enough, right?)
I've used 'naval-jelly' and many other things, but none worked
like the
'full strength' iodine did.
Bob Saville
N3396H 415C
Eugene, OR
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