has anyone tried POR...you read about it in Hemmings mag.....no, it isn't (approved, pma'd stc'd ect.) but let me tell you it world on auto bodies...I used the last of mine up on the last restoration I had , or I would try it on a old aul. tank....it sure would be a WHOLE lot safer. and less wear and tear on nerves than trying to "weld" something to the gas tank....shudder shudder....I saw what happened to a gentleman who tried to use a flame to "fix" a gas tank on a coupe, once...he no longer sees, and a couple of fingers are missing...He filled the tank with water AND used car exhaust!...jolly in aurora, or.
Syd Cohen wrote: > Bill, here are a few more thoughts on your reply: > > William W Ducharme wrote: > > > If you pump carbon monozide (car > > exhaust or other inert gas) into the tank while welding I'm told it's > > perfectly safe. > > Carbon monoxide is not an inert gas. It does burn with a blue flame. Argon is > used as an inert gas for welding tanks. > > > > > > > Do you (does anyone) think soldering the rivets is worth a try. Seems > > to me if it worked (big if) it would be a more permanent solution for > > weeping rivets short of a total rebuild at $300 per tank or more. > > Does solder stick to aluminum? I've never had any luck doing that. Your > original idea about the paint may be better if indeed you have no corrosion. > The sealant, if put in properly should have lasted longer than it apparently > has. The key word, I guess, is "properly." Good luck on your project. > > Syd Cohen
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