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Bali High

The Daily Reckoning

Paris, France

Monday, 27 January 2003

                 --------------------

*** Bad day for stocks on Friday...another episode of the
Wall Street Horror show

*** The dollar's dolorus decline continues...

*** Teetering on the edge of deflation...war in Iraq...and
more!

                 --------------------

Another GUDD week. Gold Up, Dollar Down.

While the rest of the world watches the stock market, here
at the Daily Reckoning, we keep our eyes on the dollar.
Both have been going down of late. We were out of stocks,
but through no fault of our own, we were still in dollars,
like it or not.

Our rent here in the Paris headquarters has gone up more
than 20% in the last 12 months, not to mention our liquor
and foie gras.

Recently, the dollar has gone down 9 days in a row.

We take it personally. Why didn't we take a bigger position
in euros, we ask ourselves? Why didn't we buy more gold
when it was below $300? They 'had' to go up against the
dollar, we kept explaining to anyone who would listen. Here
it is...gold over $350 and the euro over $1.08...and, oops,
looks like we forgot to listen to our own rant!

Now what to do? Won't the price of gold and the euro
drop...giving us one last chance to load up before they go
to the moon? Or is it already too late? "If you're not on
the train, you have to ride a bicycle," goes the expression
in Europe.

The dollar/gold trend is one that is likely to last for
many years...a long time to spend on pedaling. The dollar
rose - unnaturally and unusually - against gold for 20
years. That is not something that is likely to be corrected
in a couple of trading sessions. Maybe we shouldn't worry
about the price...maybe we should just make our move
now...and not look at it again for the next 10 years?

There are so many things we don't know. As we get older, we
learn more and more...but know less and less. For the more
we look into things we thought we knew, the more we realize
we knew nothing at all.

We bring this up only to prepare you, dear reader, for out
latest confession: we don't what to make of the war against
Iraq (though we can't help talking about it...more below)
...nor do we know how the inflation/deflation match will
turn out...nor can we tell you whether U.S. stocks will end
the year up or down. But the closer we look into it, the
more we've come to believe that gold is going up, if not in
the short run, certainly in the long one.

The government can "produce as many U.S. dollars as it
wishes as essentially no cost," said Ben Bernanke.

What Bernanke meant to say was that the he and other Fed
governors could control the supply of dollars. He failed to
mention what they could not control - the demand for them.
Was it not obvious that demand would go down - eventually -
since supplies have gone up for so long? And then, we curse
ourselves because we forgot to get out of the dollar when
the getting was good. Now, it's not quite as good - because
demand for dollars has already dropped sharply since
Bernanke let the cat out of the bag.

But at least we, as Americans, still keep score in
dollars...we pay our taxes, tuition and medical insurance
in dollars. Think of the poor foreigners who hold somewhere
between $3.7 trillion and $9 trillion (we know the gap is
cosmic...we have seen both numbers reported and have not
yet been able to reconcile them) in U.S. dollar assets.
While we fret and regret...these poor saps must sweat and
lose sleep. Imagine the hedge fund manager with a billion
in U.S. dollars. He's lost $100 million or so - on the
exchange rate alone - in the last year. Every day, another
few million evaporate. How long will he stand for it?

"The real collapse of the dollar is coming soon," Dr. Kurt
Richebacher whispered to colleague Dan Denning on Friday.

Over to you, Eric...

                     ------------

- The long-running "Wall Street Horror Show" played to a
packed house again last week. Now into its fourth year, the
show's longevity would be the envy of any Broadway
producer. Incredibly, despite the show's tedious plot,
audiences keep returning to watch the performance over and
over again.

- The tragic story line goes something like this: The evil
protagonist, Mr. Market, masquerades as a faithful, all-
weather friend to the lumpeninvestoriat. Deceived by his
seeming kindness, they entrust their life savings to him.
At that precise moment, Mr. Market begins to torment the
lumpeninvestoriat by destroying their net worth - bit by
bit - through various diabolical means. They do not suspect
Mr. Market's treachery...until it is too late, until long
after the wretched loss of their life savings.

- Although the "Wall Street Horror Show" builds on the
conventions of classic Greek tragedy, the script introduces
its own unique twist: the chorus is not impartial. Instead,
a chorus of Wall Street strategists merely FEIGNS
impartiality, while helping to advance Mr. Market's
deception. Throughout the tragedy, the chorus urges
hesitant investors to dispense with their doubts and to
place their complete faith in Mr. Market.

- A fascinating subplot of the "Wall Street Horror Show"
involves a minority of investors known as "goldbugs".
Throughout the early scenes, the lumpeninvestoriat heap
ridicule on members of the goldbug cult for refusing to
trust in Mr. Market. As the drama unfolds, however, the
goldbugs' faith in Mr. Gold is vindicated, much to the
tragic realization of the lumpeninvestoriat).

- The latest act of the "Wall Street Horror Show" featured
the Dow Jones Industrial Average losing 455 points in a
single week, 238 of them on Friday alone. The Dow tumbled
5.3% to 8,131. This harrowing decline dropped the blue
chips to a 2.5% loss for 2003. The Nasdaq fared a bit
better than the Dow, sliding 2.5% to 1,342. In case you're
keeping track, The Dow and S&P are now back to levels last
visited in mid-October.

- Tragedy also envelopes the US dollar. The greenback lost
value each and every day last week, and has dropped every
day since Jan. 14. The currency that James Grant calls the
"Coca-Cola of monetary brands," is trading more like the
"Shasta Cola" of monetary brands.

- The dollar finished the week at $1.08 per euro, down
1.5%. The U.S. currency, says Barron's, "is a collateral
victim of overseas investors cutting exposure to U.S.
financial assets." Maybe so...Or maybe the US financial
asset to which foreigners wish to "cut their exposure" is
the dollar itself...At least, that's the message from the
gold market. The yellow dog is sprinting like a greyhound.
Gold for February delivery jumped nearly $12 last week to
$368.40 - another new six-year high.

- Given the volatility in the currency and gold markets,
corporate earnings have become a mere side-show. Maybe
that's just as well. Corporate earnings haven't been much
to look at these days. Company after company has been
reporting uninspiring earnings, punctuated by even less
inspiring predictions about future growth prospects.

- Even so, the lumpeninvestoriat cling to their misguided
faith in Mr. Market. But their faith appears to be
wavering.

- "The widespread lack of interest in stocks among
individual investors is evident in weak commission income
among discount brokers, mutual-fund sales volume and
surveys of nonprofessionals that reveal unusual
bearishness," says Barron's. "Estimates of mutual-fund
activity indicate that cash has been withdrawn from stock
funds, on a net basis, so far in 2003. McManus of Bank of
America Securities notes that if the stock-fund flows end
up being negative for the month, it will mark the first
time since 1990 that there were net redemptions in this
sector during the month of January."

But maybe the redemptions are the result of poverty, rather
than disinterest in stocks. Maybe the spirit is willing,
but the pocketbook is weak. After three straight losing
years, investors are probably running a little light on the
capital required to express their faith in stocks-for-the-
long-term...And that's a tragedy.

                     ------------

Back in Paris...

*** Home foreclosures are "going through the roof," as the
Rocky Mountain News puts it.

*** Bankruptcies are hitting new records, as several news
sources reported.

*** McDonald's reported its first quarterly loss - ever.

*** The wine industry is going a little sour, says the
Seattle paper - too many bottles and not enough heavy
drinkers. (Let the record show that we do our part here at
the Daily Reckoning. We had a problem with alcohol for many
years. We fought it for years, but finally capitulated...)

*** "We are teetering at the edge of deflation," says
George Soros, which makes us wonder. Soros was hobnobbing
with the rich and powerful at the World Economic Forum in
Davos. Anything said at these get-togethers is almost
guaranteed to be wrong. Still, we can believe the world is
teetering. It teeters easily...and often for many years at
a stretch.

*** What's got it teetering now is that populations in rich
consumer nations are discovering that they are not as rich
nor as young as they thought they were. They're going to
have to stop spending so much money - which means they have
to stop buying so much from low-cost producers in Asia and
the Far East. Anything that can be exported gets marked
down...which is why prices on goods fell 1.5% in December
(biggest drop in 45 years)...while services (not subject to
import competition) rose 3.2%.

*** "What do you think of the war against Iraq?" asked a
French politician at a dinner party last week.

Your editor had been silent almost all evening. After 10
P.M., he still had no opinions worth sharing, and no
thoughts worth having. Still, his dinner companions seemed
to want a fight. They had been complaining about how the
CIA, American oil companies, the Bush Administration,
Rumsfeld et al manipulate international events. They were
convinced that American foreign policy was corrupt and
self-serving...and now they expected the American at the
table to provide a target for their sharp wits.

"But it's not really what you think, at all," he began.
"American foreign policy is not venal...These are oil men
in the White House, yes...of course...but they don't want
to get control of Iraq in order to gain access to the oil.
That's much too simple and too logical. What is really
going on is that the U.S. finds itself on the threshold of
Empire. Through no real fault of its own, it is alone on
top of the world - the planet's only superpower.

"But nature abhors a monopoly. She will not permit it for
very long. So, Americans have to find some way to destroy
themselves...they must make some 'mistakes' that will
redress nature's balance. And we seem to have found one:
the U.S. needs foreign capital investment in order to
finance government deficits and consumer spending. These
investments depend on the strength to the dollar. So, what
must policy makers do? They must ruin the dollar - which is
what the Fed seems to be doing. That will pull the
financial run out from under the super economy....

"And the war on Iraq...? Well, it's probably just a way of
making the financial problem worse...spending huge amounts
of money going to war with laughably unequal
opponents...while spreading out the U.S. military in areas
that represent no real threat to any major enemy. You don't
see U.S. forces massing on the frontiers of China or
Russia...not even on the edge of North Korea! The Iraq
war...and the War Against Terror...they're like the
deployment of the Roman legions all over the periphery of
the Empire. They cost a lot of money; but ultimately, they
could not keep out the barbarians.

"Of course, the process could take centuries..."

Whether this made any sense or not...your editor could not
say; it was too late. But it had the desired effect. The
table conversation turned to other subjects.

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                ----------------------

The Daily Reckoning PRESENTS: America - and much of the
rest of the world, for that matter - seems to be suffering
from a bad case of CNN syndrome. It's even affected how and
where we spend our vacations, as Peter McKillop points out
below, and perhaps, even how much we enjoy them...


BALI HIGH
By Peter McKillop

I have just returned from ten glorious days in Bali. There
wasn't a terrorist in sight...nor, for that matter, too
many tourists. The only explosions were the afternoon
thunderstorms. The only apparent danger was the annoying k-
knockers - a toy with two balls on a string clacking
together at high speed, which seems to be the distraction
of choice for every man and boy in Bali.

Bali is mending much faster than initially expected. The
bombsite in Kuta is under repair; recent Balinese exorcism
rites settled the ghosts. Even a few tourists are trickling
back. The most interesting newcomers are Russians -
planeloads of them, landing on strange-sounding charters.
Like any new aliens in a new land, the island was awash
with rumors of Russians disembarking with suitcases full of
cash.

Bali over Christmas was a supremely pleasant place to be.
With fewer crowds, it seemed that everyone relaxed. The
Balinese, of course, complained about the loss of business.
But banks are extending credit, and those laid off were
heading back to their villages and didn't seem too
concerned. Everyone agreed that this is only a temporary
lull, and that the streets, hotels, and sites will soon
once again be filled by the swarming masses of flip-
flopping sun worshippers.

Everyone, that is, except the media. Bali, if you read The
New York Times, is still a smoldering cauldron of terrorist
cells and future bombsites. You don't realize just how
silly all of this is until you arrive. In fact, we nearly
canceled our trip, showing that we, too, were suffering
from CNN Syndrome. That is, the more you listen to CNN or
read The Herald Tribune or The Wall Street Journal, the
more clouded your decision-making process will be. It
reminds me of an insightful comment made recently by a
prominent Hong Kong developer: "If you want to lose money
in China, read The New York Times or The Washington Post."

Luckily, we came to our senses and, after almost being
scared off by a New York Times article warning of the
"continuing threat of terrorism in Indonesia", we made a
blunt calculation: we balanced the potential threat of
exposing our two babies to death and destruction with the
lure of a six-bedroom villa, lush gardens, a 23-metre pool,
and a staff of 16, including a masseuse. We opted for the
villa and we are here to tell the story.

I am not arguing that the threat of terrorism isn't real.
It's very real, and it's very scary. But learning to live
with the new realities of post-9/11 vacationing means
coping with and adjusting to the asymmetrical aftershocks
of terror. It's not quite the equivalent of walking around
with Winston Churchill after a World War II Nazi bomb blitz
of London, but there are some similarities. The irony is
that modern terrorism is now so random, you have as much
chance of being a victim of an attack in Hong Kong as you
do in Bali. And short of hiding under your bed, there is
very little that you can do to improve these odds. That,
however, isn't the way the story is covered in the press.
Press reports today are filled with the latest 'urgent'
warnings from governments, think tanks, and intelligence
sources, all of which may have legitimate reasons for their
concerns, although your vacation isn't one of them.

The result is the creation of an extraordinary new level of
travel paranoia that creates interesting opportunities for
those willing to defy conventional wisdom. If you aren't
willing to do this, you risk becoming a slave to the
headlines, as we almost did when we were planning our
Christmas holidays. Which gets me to the point of this
article: the decision-making process in regards to where
and how to travel is very similar to how we decide to
invest our money. Travel decisions, like investing, are
made on the basis primarily of emotional and psychological
considerations, based on information shared by all. The cow
paths to Aspen, St. Bart's, and Gstaad are as tired and
well worn as the investment strategies and recommendations
made on Wall Street. And often, as unsatisfying and
expensive.

Like investing, you can break down travel strategies into
three familiar categories: contrarian travel, momentum
travel, and value travel. I had thought of taking a
chartist approach, but even the most precise traveler
doesn't resort to charts and graphs when deciding whether
to go to Bermuda or Belize. Perhaps it's my journalist
nature, but I am usually most satisfied by contrarian
travel. When I stretch out on three seats in economy with a
pennies-to-the-dollar air ticket, I know that I am in for a
good vacation. My latest experience in Bali over Christmas
was a spectacular reaffirmation of my commitment to
contrarian travel in an era of terror. It was a real Bali
high.

My fascination with contrarian travel began in the early
1980s when I discovered that tourists were abandoning Haiti
in droves because of the outbreak of a strange disease
called AIDS. For a while, the experts said, and the media
slavishly reported, that AIDS had originated in Haiti! I
have long forgotten the convoluted reasons why. That was
nonsense, of course.

But that didn't stop hordes of tourists from avoiding the
island like the plague. I enjoyed the unforgettable
experience of traveling through that country without a
tourist in sight.

My next contrarian adventure was Moscow shortly before the
failed counter-coup against Boris Yeltsin. It was a
glorious moment of transition - before the anarchy and
gangsters that soon enveloped Moscow's streets, yet long
enough after reform to allow for the blossoming of menus,
nightclubs, and fantastic bargains on antiques, art, and
whatever else the dollar-starved Russians could sell.

Throughout the 1990s, I took an increasing number of
contrarian trips. Burma - politics aside - is my tourist
fantasy of what Asia should look like. Rangoon oozes bygone
colonial charm with its dilapidated colonial structures and
sputtering General Motor buses built in the 1930s. Staying
at the Strand remains one of the finest hotel experiences
in the world. In 1993, I visited Angkor Wat during the UN
occupation of Cambodia. Sure, the occasional rumble of
Khmer Rouge artillery rattled my nerves, and you definitely
needed to stay on the set paths, but we had the ruins to
ourselves. It was magical. Other great contrarian travel
experiences were in Cuba in 1995, smoking cigars and
drinking mojitos in huge nightclubs with the most
incredibly beautiful women the world has ever seen;
visiting the Dalmatian Coast shortly after the war in the
Balkans ended; and enjoying China after the crackdown in
Tiananmen Square. Contrarian travel is definitely not
always politically correct travel.

Bali today, however, may just be the greatest contrarian
opportunity of my lifetime. One could argue that Haiti,
Cuba, and Cambodia have their rough patches. Not so with
Bali. How often does one have the chance to visit an island
that has by far the most spectacular hotels in the world?
An exaggeration? Consider that Amanresorts has four
properties on or near the island; the Four Seasons, two.
Every major luxury chain has built spectacularly luxurious
palaces here. In addition, there are the most extraordinary
villas for rent at very reasonable prices. Do the math. Add
Bali's superb Hindu architecture and culture, emerald-green
rice paddies, endless beaches, and the kindest people on
earth; subtract the usual ugly hoi polloi of backpacking
and low-rent tourism; and you get a vacation nirvana circa
1965, but with far superior accommodations.

However, like all contrarian opportunities, the window of
opportunity is short. As I left Bali, the streets were
still quiet, but the pace is picking up. Within a year, the
place will be back to normal. Great for the struggling
Balinese; but, for contrarian travelers, it's the
equivalent of getting a tip on CNBC or from Heard on the
Street.

Momentum travelers will soon replace contrarians. They are
the ones who flocked to Thailand, Australia, and Vietnam
over Christmas this year after reading all those scary
articles in the press about Bali. Most travelers, like
investors, prefer momentum travel's characteristic herd
instinct.

Momentum travel is a favorite of the Gulfstream crowd. The
herd on Wall Street and in corporate America thinks and
moves as one, and vacations are no different. Witness the
success of the Four Seasons Hotel Resort chain. Like
investing and fashion, the media slavishly cheers on every
move. And that is the problem. If every travel magazine,
and every dinner party conversation, swirls around a few
key locations, those locations, like a tired stock tip,
become grossly overpriced in terms of cost and spiritual
satisfaction. Going to Aspen or the Dominican Republic
becomes the Cisco Systems of travel opportunities, and you
can expect about as solid a return. As such, any
information on 'hot spots' in 2003 from Vogue is about as
reliable as equity research. For this reason, I am not a
fan of momentum travel.

Then there is value travel. Value travel is the comfort
food of vacations. It means visiting the old faithfuls of
your childhood - summer homes with in-laws where families
have gone for generations, or the same hotel on Bermuda
that you have religiously gone to every Easter since you
were 12 years old. Whether it is lolling around Lake
Geneva, a country home in the English countryside, or the
nooks and crannies of Long Island Sound on the eastern
seaboard of the US, you can't go wrong with these
vacations. These trips are like a good Dow stock: there is
a steady dividend on modest experiences, but little
exceptional growth. The travel industry, like mutual fund
companies, loves this kind of mentality. That may be good
for travel agents and mothers, but it won't be as rewarding
for you.

With the world becoming an increasingly nasty place, the
ability to spot the contrarian travel opportunity will make
the difference between a dull, costly, and ultimately
unsatisfying vacation experience and the immensely
rewarding opportunity of being where no one else is. For
those who went to Bali over Christmas, it was the travel
equivalent of purchasing gold a year ago or Japanese bonds
five years ago.


Sincerely,

Peter McKillop
for the Daily Reckoning

P.S. Naturally, one must use one's head and not go
overboard. While I believe that Iraq would be an absolutely
fascinating place to visit, now is not the best time. Nor
am I inclined to make a trip to Jerusalem or Colombia,
although my friends tell me I would have a great time. A
trip to Syria, however, to experience its remarkable ruins,
would be highly worthwhile. I am also sure that the all-
clear is sounding along the Kenyan coast, so I would highly
recommend the overnight train to Mombassa from Nairobi
through the game parks of Tsavo, ending with a stay for a
few nights on the beaches of Malindi, just up the coast
from Mombassa. You will enjoy the sublime peace of being
far from the madding crowd, served by grateful staff happy
to see you back, and feel secure in the knowledge that you
have just invested in the travel bargain of a lifetime.


Editor's note: Peter McKillop is a Vice President at JP
Morgan Chase & Co's Hong Kong office. McKillop has been
living in and writing about Asia for the past eight years -
first as a journalist for Newsweek magazine based in Tokyo,
then as a business executive, and currently as an Internet
columnist for TIME. The son of an American diplomat,
McKillop was born in Tunisia and was raised in Washington,
D.C.

A version of this article was published in Marc Faber's
Gloom Boom and Doom report.

For investment advice consistent with the ideas presented
in this essay, see:

Strategic Investment
http://www.agora-inc.com/reports/DRI/SecretLogic/

------------------------------------------------------

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about profiting based on the ideas in this e-mail,
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