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Away From the TV Cameras, Fire Consumes Apache Land

June 27, 2002
By CHARLIE LeDUFF






CIBECUE, Ariz., June 26 - "Pray for rain," say the signs
posted along the Fort Apache Indian Reservation roads. The
springs are drying up here, and the forest is an angry
inferno.

The monsoons are supposed to arrive next week but there are
no signs that they will get here soon.

The medicine man has called for a rain ceremony tonight,
the first in years.

While national attention is focused on the threat Arizona's
wildfires pose to Show Low, the resort town 40 miles
northeast of here, the blaze has already brought widespread
and lasting economic damage to Apache country.

Questions over the origin of the fire have also rekindled
longstanding tensions between the white and the Indian
communities.

Consider that both the Rodeo and Chediski fires started
here last week on the White Mountain Apache territory, home
to 13,500 people. The fires have merged, sending anvil-like
clouds high into the sky and casting flames across the
vista. Sixty percent of the fire is on Indian land. Of the
350,000 acres of timber already destroyed, more than
200,000 are here on this 1.6 million-acre reservation.

The tribal economy is devastated. This is the time when the
trees are supposed to be harvested but that will not
happen. More than $300 million worth of timber has been
turned to ash. The sawmills have shut down and 300 people
are out of work.

"No water and it hurts," said Johnny Endfield, vice
chairman of the White Mountain Apache, who had just toured
the southern flank of the Chediski fire, which was caused
by a hiker lost in the woods.

"That timber has been here since before our time," Mr.
Endfield said. "And in less than 30 minutes it's all gone.
Gone for us and gone for our unborn."

While 5 percent of the fire is under control, officials
said, it seems to be sprawling in every direction. "It's
still going to be a long time - several days - before we
get the upper hand on this fire," Jim Paxon, a spokesman
for the United States Forest Service, said.

Flames spun by the wind continued to move northwest near
Heber-Overgaard, where 10 homes were destroyed on Monday.

"It's nothing but a wall of smoke and we can't see
nothing," said Richardson Antonio, an Apache firefighter
and division supervisor in the area, speaking by cellphone
from near Heber-Overgaard. "We got to get the hell out of
here," he said. "It looks like it took out houses down by
the stand of ponderosa trees."

To the south, spot fires regained momentum as the winds
continued to gust at 20 miles per hour. The area is covered
in a thick, white ash, making it look like an Ansel Adams
winterscape. Normally nocturnal coyote, elk and rabbits
skittered across the bulldozed roads in the middle of the
day, a bad sign, the Apaches said.

About 1,500 firefighters are battling the blaze on the
southern and western flanks, about 2,500 north and east
around the towns of Show Low, Heber-Overgaard and Pinedale,
officials said. They are Indians and white people, college
students and full-time, professional firefighters.

Linton Ethelbah, a firefighter with Fort Apache Engine 407,
and his four-man crew were battling the flames with a
pumper truck on Tuesday. Life here cannot exist without
trees, he explained. Without their shade, people are naked
and exposed. A fire-starting thunderbolt, a camp fire, a
flare can be a cataclysm because a man cannot survive
longer than his shadow.

"This is the strangest fire I ever seen," said Mr.
Ethelbah, who explained how the Chediski fire had chased
him and his crew up a bluff last week. "It's just
tremendous; half the size of Rhode Island they tell me."

Tim Rash, a white man and a firefighter with the Bureau of
Land Management, was clearing underbrush near the Apache
crew as trees exploded like popcorn kernels. He does the
job for thrills. "I saw a fire like this once in 1988 in
Yosemite," Mr. Rash said. "You know what we did? We let it
burn until the snows came."

Although the Yosemite decision proved wise, as the national
park is green and thriving again, letting their forests
burn is not an option for the Apache people. To let the
forest burn will mean economic ruin. The Hon Dah Resort and
Casino, the second-largest employer in the White Mountain
region after the county government, brings in more than
$130 million a year, and is now closed for what is normally
its busiest season.

The tribe also operates Sun Rise Ski Resort. "We sell our
beautiful lakes and streams to tourists," Roger Leslie, the
general manager of the resort, said. "We don't know what
we'll have until the smoke clears."

Other potential losses of income come from the damage to
wildlife. The tribe sold about 65 permits to hunt elk on
the reservation last year at an average price of $15,000.
There are also bear and mountain lion hunts. The hunting
grounds are in the area of the Chediski fire, along with a
sacred lake, burial grounds and archeological sites.

There is an undertone of ill will running throughout the
region. Indians feel sorry about the fire, the bigger one
started north of the Red Dust Rodeo Grounds here, and word
on the reservation is that it was set by a teenager from
the Cibecue community. While authorities continue to
investigate the fire's origin, resentment is growing among
white people in some northern towns. Threatening messages
have been left on the answering machine of Dallas Massey,
the tribal chairman, laying blame for the fire at the feet
of the Apache. Off-handed racial slurs have been tossed at
the Indians shopping in the discount stores in the area,
accusing them of intellectual inferiority. These people
seem to forget that the Chediski fire was started by a
white woman, lost in the wilderness, who lighted an illegal
fire to attract the attention of a news helicopter.

Few reporters have come to the reservation. Little
emergency aid has been sent to White River, the seat of
tribal government, though 1,500 Apaches have been evacuated
from their homes. Some are staying at the Chief Alchesay
Activity Center, some with relatives on the reservation,
some in tent cities near the trickling rivers.

President Bush did not set foot here on his visit on
Tuesday although dozens of Indians stood in the afternoon
sun along Highway 60 at the rumor that he might drive
through.

"We've done all we could," said Herbert Tate, a board
member of the Fort Apache Timber Company, explaining that
the Apache forests are not clearcut, but are thinned and
managed year round. "We were burning out underbrush last
year until residents of Phoenix complained that the smoke
was drifting into the city and making their air quality
poor," Mr. Tate said. "The problem is not management. The
problem is a lack of water."

So now the region's air is thick with smoke from the early
summer's fires. Despite the drought, sprinklers continued
to feed the suburban lawns in Phoenix last night.

Meanwhile back at the fire camp, the men stretched out on
the roofs of their trucks, staring at the 300-foot flames
devouring the timber line along the ridges. Lightning was
predicted for the morning, they were told.

http://www.nytimes.com/2002/06/27/national/27ARIZ.html?ex=1026198158&ei=1&en=9b4161a220c18873



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