-Caveat Lector-

http://www.theage.com.au/articles/2002/04/30/1019441369020.html

Forget Fidel, just give me the secret handshake, senor
By David Gonzalez
May 1 2002

Cuba's capital has a sovereign grand commander who wears a uniform, is privy
to secrets and partial to symbolism. But he is not Fidel Castro.  His name
is Jesus Armada Pena, and he is a 33rd degree mason who presides over Cuba's
Supreme Council at an imposing, if age-worn,  Scottish Rite Masonic temple
in central Havana.

Long discouraged and distrusted by the authorities, Cuba's masons have seen
their ranks more than double since the 1980s, to 29,000  members in more
than 316 lodges across the island. Earlier this year, the Cuban Government
gave permission for two new lodges, the first  since 1967.

Along with other fraternal or mystical groups, like the Oddfellows and the
Rosicrucians, the Masons have been attracting men searching for  more
enduring answers than those offered by communism, the only system
generations of Cubans have ever known.

Once shrouded in secrecy, the fraternal groups - which exist in many
countries and have origins as old as the Crusades - shun specific  religions
and ideologies and say their purpose is to foster brotherhood and search for
truth.

The Masons, the largest of Cuba's brotherhoods, meet weekly to celebrate
rituals in rooms with flaked murals of the heavens and tarnished  swords on
pedestals. They sit, wearing threadbare ceremonial aprons, in high-backed
wooden chairs.

Members visit the sick in hospitals and help out their families. Armada's
masonic temple distributes medicine and vitamins donated by lodges  in the
United States and Europe. The brotherhoods are creating a mutual aid network
that seeks - very cautiously - to provide what Castro's  government does not
or will not.

"We have always existed in Cuba," Armada says. "But after the revolution
there was a decrease in membership. So many left the country,  while others
thought the Masons no longer had a reason for being because our principles
and foundation as an institution were overtaken by  the political process.

"Now we have found an echo among the young. They are looking for answers to
their worries, which the state could not give them."

What the state has long given the masons is trouble, going back to the rule
of Spain in the 1800s. The first lodges were founded by French  settlers who
fled the slave revolt in Haiti. Cuba's Grand Lodge and the Supreme Council
were created in 1859, and attracted many men who  would go on to fight
Spanish colonial rule.

Pointing to a portrait on his office wall of Benito Juarez, the mason and
Mexican hero, he said the fellowship has had a strong appeal to
nationalists. Even Jose Marti, the fabled apostle of Cuba's fight against
Spain, was said to have been a mason.

"The mason is imbued with the ideals of the French Revolution, the American
Revolution and the philosophical currents of the time, like  Rousseau,"
Armada says.

But when the communists came to power in 1959, the masons' ideas were seen
as a threat. Membership plummeted from 39,000 to 14,000  by 1980 as the
group was treated as a clandestine counter-revolutionary sect.

Recently the government has given a little more leeway, even allowing some
masons to travel to conventions overseas. Members are careful  not to
overstep their bounds, and they give the government reports on their
meetings.

Lately, they have been allowed to conduct wreath-laying ceremonies in public
parks. But they cannot hold street processions with unfurled  banners.

"There is a great vacuum after the fall of the socialist bloc did away with
any hope for people to develop themselves," says Raul Rivero, an
independent Cuban journalist. "So people sought refuge in those groups
looking for solidarity. For these fraternal groups the loyalty is to the
human being. For the government, solidarity is conditioned on political
principle."

Officially, the government now says the masons are linked to some of the
nobler moments of Cuba's past. Privately, masons complain that they  are
infiltrated with government agents and sometimes receive veiled warnings
about their meetings with foreigners, including American  diplomats.

Those diplomats are watching the growth of the fraternal orders with
interest.

"They loosen the bonds of the state by showing that services and resources
can be provided by people themselves," said Vicky Huddleston,  the head of
the US Interests Section in Havana. "For a communist system, that is a
dangerous idea."

Masons insist that Cuban politics, like race, are not discussed inside the
temple's thick walls. But they say their talks are free-ranging, covering
everything from democracy to the human genome project.

The masons do have their secrets, like the phrases and signals they use to
identify one another. But they openly proclaim their principles -  indoors.
Inside the temple's entrance is a huge framed copy of the Universal
Declaration of Human Rights. In recent years, rights advocates  who tried to
distribute the document in public were arrested, and the issue is sensitive
now after the United Nations voted this month to criticise  Cuba's human
rights record.

"What are human rights in the context of a nation or a person?" Armada
muses. "Say I am a head of state and I ruin the country. Thousands of
people suffer the consequences of my error. Have I gone against human
rights?"

Then, with a smile, he adds a quick coda: "That was hypothetical."

- New York Times

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