I finally managed to attach strace before it stopped screwing up the
system and it's just repeatedly calling lstat() on thousands and
thousands of thumbnail files. That's clearly a dumb thing to be doing
but I'm still surprised that it's so insanely slow as I'd expect the
directory information to be fairly small and cached pretty quickly.

I don't know whether lstat() itself has any performance issues which
would make it this slow. Maybe it's having to read information which
isn't stored in the directory structure and thereby having to do tens of
thousands of single block reads?

Oh, hang on: I'm using ecryptfs for my home directory. I wonder if it's
some interaction between a poorly thought out directory scan and extra
overhead due to ecryptfs?

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gnome-settings manager freezes system on login
https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/597512
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