Did you try to set the font in Edit->Preferences->Mail
preferences->General->Message Fonts?

Uncheck 'Use the same fonts as other applications'
Pick 'Monospace' as the 'Standard Font'

Works for me in version 2.32.2 (natty)

** Changed in: evolution (Ubuntu)
       Status: New => Incomplete

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https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/793580

Title:
  no way to set fixed-width font for reading emails

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