It was due to font substitution of standard Helvetica and Times by the TexGyre 
ones.
Uninstalling such package made the PDF readers use some pfb files in
/usr/share/fonts/X11/Type1/*  (Nimbus Sans, Nimbus Roman, DIngbats, ...) which 
seem to display ligatures correctly (at least in the supplied PDF and another 
one I had: both results were correct in Evince and Okular).
So, I changed the target package from evince to fonts-texgyre. 

In my machine, it was installed from the "recommendations" for package
installation from texlive (in my case): it recommended texlive-fonts-
recommended and this one recommended tex-gyre and the depending font-
texgyre. Hopefully, as it is a "recommended" one this does not break
anything essential outside LaTeX.


** Package changed: evince (Ubuntu) => tex-gyre (Ubuntu)

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https://bugs.launchpad.net/bugs/1317599

Title:
  Evince doesn't show "fi"-ligatures in a pdf file

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