"Gene McCalmont" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Hello Joe;
As you know, the L4B is a fairly straight forward grounded grid linear
amplifier design. I've used several of these amps, including an L4 with
3-400 tubes, for many reliable years. As you suspected, the excessive grid
drive is indicative of other problems and I would suspect from your
description that the root cause is the lack of HV applied to the tubes,
rather than the RF deck itself. The lack of HV applied to the tube plates
will cause the grid to conduct excessive current. Although there are other
failure modes that can present the same result, lack of HV is the most
common. Please be very careful testing your amp as excessive grid will ruin
your 3-500Zs. Of course, I'm sure you already know most of this.

I would suggest that you check these things in order of the most simple
first:
1. Do you have the HV connection to the back of the RF deck firmly fixed in
place. Is this cable and connector in good shape? These components will age
and although they may look good from the outside, there may be hidden
problems. If all looks good, proceed to the next step.

2. Remove the top cage of the L4-PS (check your user manual for proper
instructions) and inspect the "fuse resistor" (a small .82 ohm component) on
the deck's top side, to determine if the resistor is OK. This resistor is
mounted to an insulated post on the top of the PS and is not easily confused
with the big "power dropping resistors" mounted directly to the PS
transformer. Also check to confirm that the HV cable to the RF deck is
properly soldered. The resistor is a common source of problems for the L4-PS
and will deteriorate with age. It is designed to "self sacrifice" should the
HV short in the cable or at the RF deck. If it is cracked, burnt, blistered
or slightly swollen, replace it. Replacement resistors are readily available
and this is an easy job. The HV cable is generally very stiff and the wire
within does not take solder readily. If the PS has been worked on, it is
possible that the cable has become separated from the HV supply. If
everything looks good, proceed to the next step.

3. Visually inspect the diode "daughter boards" to determine if the diode
stack was properly replaced and installed. It is very easy to mount these
daughter boards "backwards" such that the PS HV is actually cut off on one
or each cycle rather than conducting. Check the circuit diagram for your PS
to determine how the cathode should be connected on each bank. It is a
common failure mode to connect these daughter boards with opposite polarity.
You may have to remove the two capacitor boards to adequately inspect the
diode boards. If everything looks correct, proceed to the next step.

4. Visually inspect the two banks of HV capacitors for problems such as
electrolyte leaks, swelling, any unusual discoloration, burn marks from
excessive heat or other signs of deterioration and open leads or cold solder
joints. Problems with the HV caps is the most common failure mode for the HV
power supply and they are difficult to replace because axel lead HV caps of
the proper size and rating are not usually available. Any observed problem
means that all HV capacitors must be replaced. There is a thread on this
list that addresses a new HV capacitor replacement board that would be worth
looking into, however, the replacement job is not complicated and there are
many threads in the list archives that explain how to do this job. If
everything looks correct, proceed to the next step.

5. Walk to the fridge and open the door by grasping the handle usually
located on one side of the door opposite the hinges. Pull firmly and swing
the door out of the way. Inspect the contents of the fridge and find a small
container, usually brown glass, narrow at the top and with a bright label
affixed to the side. Remove the container from the fridge and secure the
fridge door by pushing it shut. Locate an appropriate opener for the
container and pry the top closure loose from the container to expose the
contents within. Note: your container may be different and require a
different opening procedure. Please consult the instructions specifically
written for your type of container for proper procedures. Find a comfortable
place to sit and enjoy the contents of the container with perhaps a nice
cigar. Just maybe you will think of something that will solve your problem.

Best regards;
Gene

W5DDW
Gene McCalmont
270 Oak Ridge Ln.
Argyle Texas 76226



-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Roth
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 7:01 PM
To: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net
Subject: [drakelist] L4B help


"Joe Roth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I was fortunate to find an L4B to complete my Drake C-line station. The
tubes are supposed to be fairly new. The power supply just had diodes
replaced. I carefully (slowly) turned the amp on and everything came quietly
to life. Those 3-500Z's are the prettiest things next to a Christmas tree!

Here is the trouble. I tried to drive it with 20 watts (T4XC). The grid
current is off the scale. A mere 10 watts drive will bring it to full scale.

Plate voltage and amps read zero no matter what. The amp's T/R relay engages
but no RF out at all. I tried this on 20 & 40 meters with the same result.

What should I check next gang? Bad tubes? Bad L4-PS?

Thanks!!

Joe, N4ARI


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