The 7's are like the C-Line. I've seen B-Lines with the wave washer and with the tubing. I 'think'
the B-Line was the same as the "A" from the factory, but the tubing method works. The wave washer
dug pretty deep grooves in the back of the dial skirt, and was 'gritty' to adjust.
The circlip IS a very brittle, HARD material. I use circlip pliers, and all you have to do is take
the pressure off (no visible gap between clip and shaft) just enough to allow you to slide it
along. I broke the first one many years ago by being too aggressive, and was never able to find a
replacement. There are plenty of the same size available, but not springy enough to hold against
the dial pressure.
The B knob and skirt were a very popular item when they came out. The slanted skirt is SOOO much
better (easier to see!) in normal desk lighting.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
<www.k4oah.com>
Steve Wedge wrote:
Apparently the 7's are different from the 3's and 4's.
While we're on the dial skirt topic, I've also found that, if you've busted
that brittle circlip that's on the tuning shaft (or if it has moved; really -
you do not want to try to spread it to move it back - DAMHIKT) of the B-Line
that you can stack 1/4 x 20 washers on there until you get the proper spacing
for the wave washer and dial skirt.
That's also the way you can get a B knob and skirt onto a T-4X so it sorta
matches an R-4B.
So now I'm curious: was the dial skirt assembly significantly different, or did
Drake merely stop using the wave washers and switch to the tubing?
Enjoy Those Drakes...
Steve, W1ES/4
-----Original Message-----
From: Curt Nixon<cptc...@flash.net>
Sent: Nov 17, 2011 7:12 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial
Isn't the "clutch washer between the knob and the skirt?
Perhaps I'm thinking of the 3 and 4 series.
Curt
On 11/16/2011 10:17 PM, Garey Barrell wrote:
Allen -
There are several choices. The original is surgical rubber tubing,
which is a translucent amber colored rubber tubing. It's very soft
and flexible, and makes a great 'clutch' material. Unfortunately
after 30-40 years it gets hard and darkens in color. It is difficult
to find unless you have a friend who works in a hospital. If you have
a surgical supply store they will often cut off a foot or so for you,
which is a lifetime supply.
Another possibility is automotive 'heater' hose, which is a black
rubber, fabric reinforced tubing available at auto supply stores.
Again they'll often cut off a piece, or sell you a foot cheaply.
Hardware stores also have poly tubing, the clear stuff on reels.
Again, you need a foot or less!
ALL of the above are 3/8" id x 5/8" od. You need to cut a piece about
a half inch long. More than the absolute length, the ends must be cut
square and flat. I use an X-Acto razor saw in the little aluminum
'miter' box. Various types of scissors and cutters will cut the
tubing, but usually leave a poor end surface due to the tubing
collapsing when cut. But you've got a foot or so to experiment with,
right?!?!
When you replace the MAIN TUNING knob, push in on it slightly to
engage the clutch surfaces and then tighten the set screws.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
<www.k4oah.com>
Allen Bush wrote:
Does anyone have a recommendation for the little rubber piece that
goes behind the dial skirt and allows the dial/knob to be slipped to
calibrate the skirt? Mine have turned hard and are cracking and
turning to dust.... Allen, W0OUU
_______________________________________________
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
