Chris, I can tell what I do that has worked time and time again. I recently brought up four Heathkit HP-23 power supplies with original caps.
I use an AC ammeter to monitor the AC input voltage on the variac and bring the AC input voltage to the power supply up 10% per hour. I also monitor the LV and HV supply outputs. Anything other than gradual current and voltage increases with AC input increases would indicate a problem. You will find that when you increase to the next AC input increment, the AC current will increase then slowly fall back to something slightly more than the resting current from the last setting. I attribute this to the capacitor forming action that is occurring as the DC voltage increases. Of course you will have some steady AC input current due to bleeder resistors in the power supply. Example: the final steady state AC input current to the HP 23 was slightly under 1 amp at 100% AC input. Just my 2 cents..... 73, Stan, KF4BY On Sun, Jan 13, 2013 at 5:40 PM, Christopher Bowne <[email protected]>wrote: > I am about to set out to get a TR-3/AC-3/MS-4 up and running here, have > had them for a while, all were NEARFEST scores over the last few years. > Just looked at the caps in the AC-3, all seem original, but do not appear > to be leaky. I do have a variac and am interested in knowing what a good > re-forming regimen might be to bringing the supply up. Down here in SE CT, > right next door to Westerly, RI.... > > Chris,AJ1G > Stonington, CT > > ------------------------------ > *From:* "[email protected]" <[email protected]> > *To:* [email protected] > *Sent:* Sun, January 13, 2013 12:00:19 PM > *Subject:* Drakelist Digest, Vol 55, Issue 7 > > Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to > [email protected] > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > [email protected] > > You can reach the person managing the list at > [email protected] > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Wanted 2-B Band Crystals (Joe Connor) > 2. Re: 2B Receiver Preselector Knob (Stan Nafziger) > 3. TR-3/TR-4 owners in Boston area? (Chuck Wyatt) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 09:11:18 -0800 (PST) > From: Joe Connor <[email protected]> > To: Darrell Bellerive <[email protected]>, > "[email protected]" <[email protected]>, > "[email protected]" <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Wanted 2-B Band Crystals > Message-ID: > <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Darrell: > ? > ???? Try Bryan Carling (http://www.af4k.com/index.html). I bought some > Drake crystals from him to get SW coverage on my Drake 2B. I was quite > satisfied. He's a good guy. > ? > ???????????????????????????????? Joe Connor > > > >________________________________ > >From: Darrell Bellerive <[email protected]> > >To: [email protected]; [email protected] > >Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2013 11:50 AM > >Subject: [Drakelist] Wanted 2-B Band Crystals > > > >I am looking for the following band crystals for my Drake 2-B. I want to > expand coverage to all amateur bands from 160 meters through 10 meters. I > already have the 160 meter conversion for the "A" band. I am hoping to find > used crystals rather than have new ones built, but have the feeling these > will be scarce on the used market. Here's to hoping though... > > > >9.0 MHz for 60 meter band on switch position B > >14.0 MHz for 30 meter band on switch position C > >14.5 MHz for 17 meter band on switch position D > > > >Third overtone type: > >21.0 MHz for 12 meter band on switch position E > >24.5 MHz for 10 meter band on switch position 10-1 > >25.6 MHz for 10 meter band on switch position 10-3 > > > >Please contact me off list. > > > >73, Darrell VA7TO > > > > > > > > > >-- Darrell Bellerive > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Drakelist mailing list > >[email protected] > >http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20130112/62a28e55/attachment-0001.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 21:17:42 -0500 > From: Stan Nafziger <[email protected]> > To: Mark <[email protected]> > Cc: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [Drakelist] 2B Receiver Preselector Knob > Message-ID: > <CAPNB6n53oWK3nR1=xlkocb+qtoc0gab_i_5u9yqdkwh47at...@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Mark and All, > > I've had good success (2 for 2) repairing split/cracked TenTec 238 tuner > selector knobs and would be willing to attempt the same procedure with the > 2B preselector knob. I remove the inside hub of the knob then machine an > aluminum or brass hub (drilled and tapped for the set screw) and epoxy it > inside the knob. I then compress the knob around the new hub to glue the > crack as tight as possible. The crack would probably still be visible on > close inspection but the knob/hub will be significantly stronger. Of > course, the best solution is a new knob if one can be found. > > Up to this point, I had not considered doing this as a service to others > but with original knobs becoming "unobtainium" maybe it would help keep our > great vintage Drake equipment operating and looking good for years to come. > > Let me know if you would like to give it a try. I would not have > availability until after Jan 21, however. > > 73, > Stan, KF4BY > C-Lines, C4, W4, L4B, TR4C, RV4, 2B, 2BQ, 2C, 2NT, UV3, TR7, RV75, MN2700, > etc. > (I really enjoy the Drake equipment!) > > On Fri, Jan 4, 2013 at 8:25 PM, Mark <[email protected]> wrote: > > > Hi,**** > > > > ** ** > > > > Does anyone have a 2B Preselector knob for sale, or know where I can get > > one? While mine is still working, it has a crack in it. If not, does > > anyone know who supplied them to Drake?**** > > > > ** ** > > > > Finally, it looks as it the 2C used the same knob. Is that true?**** > > > > ** ** > > > > Thanks and 73,**** > > > > Mark NO8J**** > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Drakelist mailing list > > [email protected] > > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20130112/c5e98c59/attachment-0001.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 22:43:26 -0500 > From: "Chuck Wyatt" <[email protected]> > To: <[email protected]> > Subject: [Drakelist] TR-3/TR-4 owners in Boston area? > Message-ID: <[email protected]> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Hi there, > > > > I'm considering outfitting my TR-3 with new finals, but would need some > guidance and elmer/equipment support in doing the neutralizing of finals > and > such. So just wondering if there might be some enthusiasts in this area > that might be up for helping out with such a thing. I'd offer a six-pack > of > beer or other food oriented gratitude for such help. > > > > Thanks and 73, > > > > Chuck > > W1CEW > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20130112/31b070fa/attachment-0001.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Drakelist mailing list > [email protected] > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > > > End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 55, Issue 7 > **************************************** > > _______________________________________________ > Drakelist mailing list > [email protected] > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > >
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