> What else can I do? I'm open to any suggestions. I recall seeing an
> extended version of Mr. Ho's advice on the list a while ago, but was not
> wise enough to save it. Does anybody have that? Or any other advice?
>
I have had the same experience and tried everything as well as leaving with
no batt and AC for a week and dismantling reseating everything.
I eventually gave in and sent it to DT&T who fixed it and it has been fine
since (6monts aprox)
Below is what I have saved. Sorry for such a big post (of course when you
get a GLOD situation you cant reach what you have saved on the subject!!)
--------------- all below this line is from others--------------
Hi Yannis, Switzerland calling. Here are the first series of steps to try,
assuming your hard drive or emergency floppy will otherwise bootup.
1. Press Power Reset Button down for 40-50 secs. Repeat 6-8 times with
battery out, AC out. If no go try with AC plugged in. Probably the green
light of death (GLOD) comes on immediately and stays on as soon as you
release the button. This is more or less by the book.
2. In case Step 1 doesn't work, without taking the 2400c apart, pull
battery, pull AC power, and let sit hours until GLOD goes out. Reset Power
Manager for 40-60 sec. You should not get any green light as
everything should be (nearly) completely discharged. Then reconnect AC only
(you must have a reliable power supply without frayed wires) and press power
button for a normal restart.
3. In case Step 2 doesn't work, without taking the 2400c apart, pull
battery, pull AC power, and let sit 2-3 days after GLOD has already gone
out. I have come to suspect that the PRAM batteries can hold a residual
charge, not strong enough even to light the green diode, but strong enough
to maintain corrupted PRAM for quite a while longer that one would think.
If this still doesn't work, at least to get to a "boing", the problem is
likely hardware related. Here a loose screw or loosened ram card would be
the least of the problems but yours seems more serious. If the screen
lights, even with a sour Mac, or blinking ?, we're into a different set of
(most likely software) problems. It is important to know if you get a
"boing" chime, or if the screen even lights.
FWIW, I've thought at least 2-3 times (total) I've had serious hardware
problems on two different G3 upgraded 2400s, including dead MB, G3 or PB,
but these always (so far) turned out to be something else. I've found the
2400 is exceptionally sensitive to PRAM and software corruption but this
takes some careful and patient, repetitive sleuthing. As the 2400 is
unsupported in Europe, and our airline luggage highly restricted,
resurrecting "dead 2400s" is a matter of serious survival. And, Tobia Kaiser
wrote:
--------------------------------------------------
Having just survived my FIFTH green light of death, I now feel like I
can put in my $.02. I have tried the method of removing all power,
etc. but have found those to be somewhat unreliable. For my last two
green lights, I removed the battery, plugged in the power adapter,
hit the reset button for 30 seconds, and Voila! Chimes! This has
now worked twice without a hitch, so I can at least recommend you try
it. Or, at the very least, add it to the list of methods that MIGHT
work.
Best luck.
Dave
--------------------------------------------------
Seeing ever more 2400s bite the dust on list, I'll come in from shadows in
the form of a generic reply to various death symptom problems posted on
list, based on some empirical discoveries I've made over the years. I use a
primary G3/320-112/30gb and a backup G3/240-80/20gb, both on OS8.6 (I'm
definitely not a fan of OS9). Since I don't live in the Apple delimited
PB2400 service areas of USA or Japan, I must have some way to keep at least
one active. I have, on several occasions, thought one or the other of my
2400s was dead and beyond repair. Each time I've brought them back (so far).
Each 2400 has been apart numerous times. In fact I left my G3/240 in pieces
on the shelf for more than 6 months before "fixing" it some 18 months ago,
just by re-assembly including a totally drained PRAM battery (which cleared
the corrupted Power Manager which repeated resets of every duration failed
to resolve).
It's clear that the 2400 is an EXTREMELY sensitive machine. It takes very
little to have a 2400 go into a "terminal" "green light of death" or "no
light & click of death" or other troubling and increasingly terminal
symptoms. Once, surfing with Explorer resulted in a freeze and the
subsequent reboot led to increasing corruption until, eventually, I got the
"green light of death". Even transporting my computer in a car in sleep mode
has resulted in a "no light & click of death" situation--more than once. I'm
puzzled as to why. Another time, just a routine reboot under AC power on my
G3/320 resulted in ever deteriorating symptoms of terminal death, giving
every sign of a power board failure, or worse, and quite different from the
aforementioned Explorer problem (see below #3). Here's my latest on dealing
with "death symptoms".
1. GREEN LIGHT (constantly lit)
Disconnect AC
Pull Lion battery
Reconnect AC
Reset Power Manager button by depressing it for at least 40 seconds.
--battery out with AC connected results in resetting Power Manager on first
try every time that I've tried it (no more need for multiple resets).
2. NO LIGHT (hitting Power key results in faint click)
Disconnect AC
Pull Lion battery
Reset Power Manager button by depressing it for at least 40 seconds.
--this should work (works for me first time too) but if this doesn't work,
reconnect AC and repeat PM reset, always with battery out.
3. MOTHERBOARD SWAPS
I would contend that probably over 50% of the 2400s shipped off for repair
of motherboards probably don't actually need an MB repair/replacement. The
troublesome PM reset, unsuccessfully executed, seems terminal. A disassembly
of the 2400 actually drains the PRAM battery and the PM is usually easily
reset after that when out for service. For those of you whose boards have
been returned as repaired, without procedural documentation even if
requested, this is a probable explanation.
Now, because I've troubleshot my own 2400s, back to back, I want to relate
one other curious but important anomaly which has happened twice (that I
know of in Europe, verified independently). A motherboard swap must be done
with caution, apart from the usual precautions. Each 2400 motherboard
appears to be matched to its originally installed power board (possibly both
were matched tech revisions, but I haven't looked that closely). I
intentionally swapped my "freshest" components into my preferred case. After
about 3 weeks, my G3/320-2400 "failed", terminally, or so it seemed. I
pulled my backup G3/240 apart and put its MB into my 320. Everything worked
fine. BUT, installing the "defective" motherboard back into the 240 also
worked fine. Both, restored to their original boards, have been working fine
for the past 6 months. Now, I know of another case where two 2400 users had
the same experience in swapping motherboards for testing their 2400s. The
swap worked only for a few weeks before "failing" whereupon a swap back
"fixed" the problem. Go figure!
So, after countless "deaths" both of my 2400s actually have been working
"fine" since new, but test me every so often with death symptoms. If I
didn't live Switzerland, I, too, probably would have given up and sent my
computer in for "repair" several times or unwittingly parts it out or parted
with it. Necessity remains the mother of invention. YMMV.
Still waiting for a new form factor PB-G4/500+...< 5 lbs....
---
Sidney Ho
--------------- all above this line is from others--------------
Hope these help.
John
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