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Truckers say it's not safe out there
They contradict government's optimistic picture

Borzou Daragahi, Chronicle Foreign Service

Baghdad -- The last time Walid Mohammad Waij
faced death on the highway, he yelled in its
face.

Crammed with light bulbs, flower pots and other
assorted made-in-China household goods, Waij's
Volvo tractor-trailer was headed toward the
Syrian border when armed bandits pulled up
alongside and ordered him to stop. It was his
third stick-up in as many months, and Waij
decided he'd had enough.

"I yelled out the window at them," he recalls. "I
told them, 'Even if you fire at my head, I am not
going to stop.' "

Luckily, the bandits fell back in search of
easier prey. But for Waij, that was it. "I'm
getting out of the business," said the
47-year-old. "The roads are too dangerous.
Anything is better than getting killed."

Iraqi interim Prime Minister Ayad Allawi, during
his visit to Washington last week, said that all
but three of Iraq's 18 provinces are safe.

But Iraqi truckers who traverse the country's
desolate highways tell a different story. Most of
Iraq's countryside -- outside the three northern
provinces under the control of Kurdish militias
since 1991 -- has become a lawless no-man's land,
they say, where criminals rob and kill with
impunity.

"Once, I gave them all the money I had," said
Karim Amin, a grizzled 60- year-old trucker who
has been robbed several times driving between
Baghdad and Kut in southern Iraq. "They said,
'That's not all you have. You've got money inside
the car.' So they searched the car and found
nothing. They were so angry they nearly beat me
to death."

Under Saddam Hussein, the biggest headache Iraqi
truckers faced was corrupt police officers who
collected bribes at checkpoints.

These days, there are different dangers and bands
of criminals at virtually every turn.

In Iraq's vast, unstable western desert,
insurgents in and around the Sunni triangle
cities of Fallujah and Ramadi steal food to feed
their fighters.

"God help you if they suspect you're working for
the foreigners," said Ra'ad al-Tamimi, a Baghdad
truck driver.

The road to Syria is where many trucks -- and
sometimes drivers -- are taken and held for
ransom.

"They took my friend and demanded $15,000 for the
truck and driver," said Haydar Yassin Ahmad
Turkowi, who hauls food, mechanical parts and
other goods from Syria. "The company didn't have
enough, so we took up a collection to free our
friend."

Truckers say the situation is getting steadily
worse, despite the more optimistic picture
painted by Iraq's interim government.

"I don't envy the truckers," acknowledged Atta
Nabeil, deputy transportation minister. "We admit
there are big problems."

Occasionally the ministry assigns armed police
escorts to truck convoys. But the truckers have
little faith in Iraqi law enforcement. Tamimi,
another Baghdad driver, recalled the time they
gave police information on the whereabouts of a
leading highway robber who was living in a house
near Abu Ghraib, just west of Baghdad.

"We went to the police and told the exact
location where this gang leader lived," said
Tamimi. "They refused to do anything."

Many truckers share tales and safety tips at the
Shorjah truck loading depot in central Baghdad,
the main transport hub of post-war Iraq's
consumer economy. Truckers and porters unload
kitchen rugs from India, children's shoes from
Turkey, shampoos from Syria and sweets from Iran.

The fact that work is plentiful and the pay good
is more than overshadowed by the perils the
truckers face. Every trucker here says he has
been robbed or shot at. Everyone's considering a
career change.

"I have to support my family," said Amin. "But
now I'm thinking of leaving the job just to
ensure my safety and get away from the robbers."

Iraqi trucking companies that deliver to Fallujah
and Ramadi have stopped operating. Dozens of
others have folded altogether.

"The government must put more checkpoints on the
road and road patrols," said Mazen Ali, whose
19-truck firm operates along the Baghdad-Basra
route. "We need the government to do something."

A quarter of his trucks sit idle because he can't
enough find drivers willing to brave the roads,
said Ali.

"We're at the end of our line here."

http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2004/09/28/MNG99906EU1.DTL




                
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