Randy,

I must make a comment about a couple of your statements.

One, we are age challenged not OF's. Come on got to be PC. Eh?

The other is the parts aren't actually getting smaller. We have to hold them
farther away cause of our glasses so they look smaller!

OK, it was all tongue in check. The blasted things are getting so darn small
even magnifying glasses don't work for this OF's eyes!

Tim Herrick, KQ8M
Charter Member North Coast Contesters
k...@kq8m.com

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-----Original Message-----
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Randy Farmer
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 2:15 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] solder iron correct temp in C for K3

It won't work for SMD stuff, but over the years I've had great success 
using a classic Ungar 27W cartridge (which I seem to remember was around 
850°F) with a screw-ON 1/8" screwdriver tip for just about everything 
but the heaviest jobs. This includes lots of building stuff with 
standard through-hole DIP components. I never overcooked anything. The 
beauty of a big hot iron is it lets you get in, heat the work and get 
off quickly. Low wattage irons just cook the components and the board. 
Nowadays, like everybody else, I use a very small iron that produces a 
750°F tip temperature for the small parts and dense connector pins, but 
I still use the old one for most everything else. It's the curse of the 
OFs: our eyesight continually gets worse as the parts continually get 
smaller.

73...
Randy, W8FN

On 04/26/2012 18:26, W9HAK wrote:
> I have a new solder iron that is temperature
> controlled in degrees C.
> What temp should I set the iron for work on  the
> K3? I am using 60/40
> rosin core, small diameter solder. While using
> solder wick to clean out
> the holes from the 12 dc mod kit I used 300c and
> dipped the wick in
> solder flux. I pulled the solder wick across the
> land when the solder
> was liquid, it cleaned the holes on the first pass.
>
> Smith Bradford
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