Bill,

Combining the "not inst" message with the Info 080 are indicators that 
you likely have a problem with the KAT100.  I would first open the 
bottom and look carefully and critically at the soldering, particularly 
in the front corner where the firmware IC is located.

If your K2 is sensitive to temperature (within a normal range) and 
humidity, you have one or more soldering problems.  I would suggest 
re-flowing the solder with a hot iron (750 degF),
Review the Soldering Tutorial on the Elecraft website if you do not know 
what constitutes a good solder connection.  It is critical that both the 
solder pad and the component lead receive enough heat to flow the solder 
out to an almost invisible edge on both the solder pad and the component 
lead - that will usually produce a concave shaped fillet.  If the fillet 
is convex, it is a suspect connection (likely bad).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/1/2012 1:03 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
> In the last couple of months I diagnosed and fixed a problem with the KPA100. 
> There were two failures -- one was U6 -- EL5146C which was shorted internally 
> and kept the KPA100 microprocessor from receiving the +5 volts it required. 
> The second were failures in the 1N5711 Schottky diodes D16 and D17 -- they 
> failed as partially working.
>
> I recently operate the K2/100 during the CQWW RTTY and it didn't give me any 
> trouble. However, today I got into the shack to work a couple of contacts at 
> lunch, and I'm greeted with Info 080.
>
> A little more background -- even after fixing the issue, I would occasionally 
> see an "not inst" error when pressing the Ant 1/2 switch. Sometimes the 
> KAT100 wouldn't light up immediately when switching the K2 on. When it did 
> this, I'd generally see the "not inst" problem. Cycling the power switch 
> would generally cure the problem.
>
> I saw this issue once before, right before Field Day. I'd set up my rig in my 
> camper, and then the next morning it gave me Info 080. At the time, I believe 
> part of the problem was due to humidity. If I leave the rig on, eventually 
> the problem seems to resolve itself.
>
> There's something that definitely seems to be sensitive to humidity and the 
> action of the AUXBUS.
>
> As I write this, it is 75 degrees F and 87% humidity in my unheated storage 
> room shack. The K2 initially had several segments in the display that were 
> only partially dark, but now they are dark black. Initially, there was no 
> sound out of the speaker, and it would "tick" when I turned the main tuning 
> dial. Perhaps if I wait long enough, it will eventually dry out.
>
> Any clue how to diagnose this problem? Are there components which are 
> particularly sensitive to humidity? Why does this affect the AUXBUS operation?
>
> Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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